Backing Fabric Myosotis

 Sometimes I wish I had Roisin's knack for naming a dress, because mostly mine are called what they are:  they type of fabric combined with the pattern name and there you have it!  And this is no different.

  Earlier this year, I had Bird-in-Hand Fabrics quilt a quilt top that I had made years and years ago.  Why is this important?  Because I fell in love with the backing fabric that I picked out.

Blush Amelia by P&B Textiles

 I could see it as a long, button front myosotis dress!  Only this time, I wanted just a few things different. 

 I started with the bodice from the myosotis take 3 but added a collar and collar stand and ties from the front darts.  I will say, this was a little challenging to make, mostly because I was flying by the seat of my pants.  Since I had cut the neckline slightly deeper in the back and lower in the front, I ended up making the collar twice so that it actually fit.  And now, thinking about it 2 weeks after I made it, I cannot remember which collar fit.  Oh well, I kept all the correct pattern pieces (I hope).

 Also, at some point during construction, I freaked out and thought I was going to have to buy more fabric.  Not really sure why.  Oh, wait, because I thought I would use one width for the back of the skirt and one for the front.  Umm, the fabric is 108" wide - there was plenty!  

  I knew from measuring my blue floral dress that I needed 40" of finished length on the skirt.  I wanted this dress to have a deep hem, so I cut the fabric for the skirt portion at 44" and then I cut 1/4 of the width from each selvedge, so that there was one large piece 52" wide for the back of the skirt.  Selvedges to the center front and I added my favorite side seam pockets to the skirt front pieces.

   

 Once the skirt was constructed, I pressed up for the hem, but did that last.  Then I made the two ties.  They were cut from 'scraps of fabric' 3" wide and folded in half, turned, pressed and then topstitched.  I then carefully tucked the ties into the front waist darts before sewing them up.  

  I also sewed the collar and topstitched it before adding the collar stand.  And because I used all the facing pieces, I literally just sandwiched the collar between the bodice and the facing.  Is it the right way to do it?  Maybe no.  Did it work?  Absolutely!  Would I do it this way again? In a heartbeat! 

 When I gather the skirt onto the bodice, I try to the leave the center front flat.  So, for this pattern that means the gathers don't start until the front waist dart and then gather around to the other waist dart.  It seems to work for me. 

 And that added waist tie?  It's just tied loosely in the back.  Not really pulling anything in, just adding a little something extra!

  This extra wide backing fabric is so soft and so pretty - I can't wait to wear this dress all the time.  And buy some more fabric from this line.  I bought 2 1/2 yards and could have gotten away with 2.  I have only tiny scraps left over. 

Fall Ottobre Dress

I have long been on the lookout for an easy to wear, dress up or down tee shirt dress!  Even though I have a great pattern - I'm still always looking for the next best thing.  Why is that?

But truthfully, when I have a beautiful piece of fabric, I go back to my Ottobre Tee Shirt Dress.  I first made this dress in 2013 and the only change I made to the pattern was to add 2 fisheye darts at the back waist.  At this point in time I think I've made 7 dresses from this pattern and see no reason to stop anytime soon! 

I've used ponte, ITY, and a painted sweater knit.  This dress just works for me!  The pattern, if you are wondering, is from 5/2013 and it's the Friday Evening Dress (4B).

The Fall version of this dress was made in January 2018 in a last minute rush to make something new for me to wear on vacation!  This dress is so easy for me to whip up and know it's gonna fit and i'm going to feel great wearing it. 

This time I used a beautiful Fall color ITY from FabricMart.  I can make this raglan sleeved dress with just over a yard of 60" wide fabric and have it done in about 2 hours from cutting to hemming.

This dress kept me warm and feeling good while we traipsed all over Italy & France worn with knee high boots and tights. 

I don't even mind how my back view look when wearing the Ottobre dress.  With 4 darts - 2 shoulder and the 2 added fisheye darts in the back to counteract sway back pooling, 4 raglan seams, and then 4 hems - it's a quick one!

The dress doesn't really cup my rear, but the wind was blowing.  It does, however, hug closer to my back thanks to the added darts. 

If you have this issue of Ottobre - try this dress!  I don't think you'll be mad about it.  You can see some of my many versions of this dress. There will be more - I already have one made up from a FabricMart bundle that's just waiting for photos.

Wide Legged Pants - Take 2

In all honesty, this is more like take 4.  But at least I'm sticking with it!

Do you remember my wide legged pants?  In all honesty, they were version 2, but the first version using McCalls 7757.  Take 2 had me slimming the entire leg on that original pair and then transferring that to my pattern. 

So, this is what we're calling Take 2.  I used a completely inappropriate suiting from the fabric closet. Because, I didn't care about the fabric but wanted to see how the changes worked.  The pants are short because that's how much fabric I had, but that caused it's own set of issues as you'll see later this year.

Thanks to Carolyn's amazing picture taking, you can't really tell how much too big these pants are.  It's just at the waist - too much extra fabric.  So, I've added a dart to the center back seam - taking about 1 1/2" out at the center back tapering to nothing about 7" down.  

I will tell you - these pants didn't even make it to the closet!  The fabric was all wrong, the pants are too short - although they do have a little mod squad vibe to them, they didn't stay.  If the fabric had been nicer, I would have worn them exactly as styled - with a long sleeved henley or turtleneck and my jean jacket.  But sadly, the fabric pulled. 

They did however, serve their purpose.  They told me what I needed to do next.  Those changes have been made to the pattern and a black pair has been cut and sewn.  More changes made and I'm currently searching for a fabric to do Take 4 so I can finally, finally, cut into some floral challis for the pants of my dreams! 

Also - can I just share that sewing, alterations, sewing, alterations, rinse and repeat is sucking the joy of sewing right out of me!  I just want to make all the new things!  To keep this train moving in the right direction, I've made a bargain with myself - 1 'fun' garment for every modification and remake that I do.  Soon - I should have the 'real pants' to share with you.

Another Day, Another Dress

Another ESP Dress That Is

I have been making the Decades of Style ESP Dress for the past 4 years.  I have 5 versions currently in my closet and one when to the goodwill.  

I have altered the pattern to have a lower neck thanks to instructions from the lovely people at Decades of Style.  Here's the instructions, if you want to do the same. 

This summer - I decided at the very last minute to play along with the Sewcialists mini challenge.  The summer challenge was to work from the colors in the Sewcialists logo based on a spin telling you which color to use.  I spun coral - but honestly, my dress has most of the logo colors in it.  I cut and sewed the dress up in about 9 hours.  

 Almost all of my recent blog pictures have been taken by Carolyn and this dress is no exception.  She decided to come to Carriage Corner for a weekend at the end of August.  We took a trip to Winterthur to see the Costuming the Crown exhibit and she photographed several finished garments for me.

One of my biggest complaints about this dress is that the neckline is just too wide.  It literally falls off my shoulders, bra straps showing, the works - but they are comfortable and I love wearing them.  Well, while Carolyn was taking photographs she pointed out that both the bodice back & front were gaping a little bit and that I should alter my pattern to take 1/4" out of the center front at the very top.  Hmmm, interesting - that would also solve my wide neckline problem because it would bring the shoulders in.  Live and learn, girls, live and learn.

My to-sew list is feeling a bit out of control, but getting added to is really soon is another ESP dress with the center fronts altered.  I'm pretty sure I'll have to add the zipper back into the pattern, but that's easy.  I also feel like the bodice {now that I've taken it in just a smidge} is a bit too long, so that's another adjustment to make.

But the back waist seems to be just fine - probably because I've perfected my sway/short back adjustments for this pattern.  

One other trick that I really like to do on dresses with pockets?  Or anything with pockets for that matter - is to stitch the pockets in place on the front of the garment.  

So - look for another ESP dress soon-ish.  Which in my current world means within the year :D

Also, can I just say that I'm so happy I finally got my hair cut from the length in these pictures and got new glasses!  

The Simplicity Dress

I don't know if you've figured this out yet or not, but Carolyn is a style icon for me.  Especially as her style has evolved at her 'new job,' I find her style really suits me in my role as Innkeeper. 

What you probably don't know is that Carolyn and I are friends in real life.  We chat daily and often, if I'm headed to the craft store for patterns, I'll pick some up for her as well.  Consequently, we have many of the same patterns and she generally sews them up first, but I beat her to the punch with Simplicity 8551.

During the Fall 2018 Sew Camp, I actually bought fabric to make this dress.  The fabric is a lightweight quilting cotton.  Handling it at FabricMart, I thought it had a bit more drape and would become really fluid with washing - I was wrong.  But I still love this dress.

When I originally cut this dress out, I added 5" to the sleeve length.  I ended up taking that out and I wish I hadn't.  The sleeves are just a tad too short for my liking - so I always push them up.  In my way of thinking - long sleeves are kinda like long hair: if you're always going to push them up they might as well be short. 

I had plans to sew this up right away and actually got around to it in November.  I asked for color suggestions for tights to wear with this dress in the winter and bought a pair of dark mustard colored leggings which I wear with it along with my favorite brown knee high boots. 

Other than the facing, there is nothing challenging about this dress.  The facing is interfaced, I did the sew the smooth side of the interfacing to the right side of the facing along the outside edges, then turn and fuse the interfacing into place.  This creates a much nicer edge than if I'd tried to turn it under evening and then just topstitch that edge into place.  Once the interfacing is applied, construct the facing as instructed. 

All in all, I really like this dress and could see more being added to my closet.  It's easy to wear and I feel put together and like myself while I'm making breakfast.  Because it has pockets, I can keep my phone with me while I'm cleaning rooms.  Since I push the sleeves up, they aren't dragging in any food.  So, on a scale of 1 -5; this pattern is a 5.  I'd like to try the view with the grommets in the neck facing - it's a fun look.  

Put a Cherry On Top!

After the last shirt - I wanted to try another.  I have a stack of shirt patterns - so plenty of options to choose from.  This time I chose Simplicity 8090

One of the things I've been trying to do this year, is not add too much to the fabric closet.  AND when I pull a piece, use up as much of it as possible.  I had pulled a cherry print to make an apron for a guest, I used all of the red contrast that I had bought for a dress inspired by a tv show but that really don't fit my lifestyle now.  BUT because I had bought a dress length, I had enough of the cherry print to make this boxy little cropped top.  I did have to buy the accent fabric. 

I really, really need to start taking better notes - especially when I wait so long to get pictures and blog something.  My IG account says that I made this top back in February!  February folks. 

So - what changes did I make?  I'm almost positive I traced a 14 shoulders, to a 16 at the bottom of the armhole and then no other changes.  I made View B with the contrast ruffle at the top.  I did draft a collar stand from the one piece collar.  This is how the pieces were cut; Cherries: front, back, sleeve and upper collar; Contrast Gingham:  front facing, collar stand, under collar, back tab and a binding on the sleeves.

I have a big bag of vintage buttons, including several sets of Bakelite buttons. I put cheery red Bakelite buttons on this top.  

This top is easy to wear and distinctive from everything else in my closet.  I'd like to make another version, just slightly longer.  Because of that interesting french dart, I'm not sure where to add length - part of me wants to add it completely above the dart in an attempt to lower the dart.  And part of me says just slice through it and add length - what are your thoughts?

 I like the length of the back, but again, wouldn't be sad if I added length.

Isn't that little tab in the back too cute?  It's on the back of all views.  On me - it feels just slightly too high, I want it sitting at the small of my back - where you'd actually pull things together and button them up.  Easy enough to fix.

When you make a garment this distinctive, do you make multiples?  I would like to try it again and see if I can add a little length and lower that dart a bit.  We'll see what really happens - my 'to sew' list is long.

Pink Striped Shirt

My blog titles have got so creative, haven't they?  This is an old, old shirt.  I bought the fabric from Style Maker Fabrics and honestly, it got washed, ironed, cut and sewn up fairly quickly.  I think it was early 2018 when I ordered the fabric.  See, at the time I was working on a fair isle yoked sweater that really, really needed a button up to wear under it. 

You might be asking yourself why?  Because 1.) I love the look of a shirt coming out from under a pullover - the shirttail hems, the cuffs and the collar - it's just classic and b) the sweater was being knit from lopi - which is itchy as all get out.

For whatever reasons, I didn't finish the sweater.  It was a test knit and there were sizing issues FOR ME. 

I used New Look 6470 for the shirt and very carefully measured myself and then the pattern flat.  I added some space where needed.  I worked on the shirt during Spring Sew Camp 2018.  I knew as I was working on it that it wasn't going to fit me.  But I plodded on.  I'm glad I finished it. 

For the back yoke, I cut the piece in half and added a seam allowance and then cut the stripes on the bias.  The yoke facing was cut on the normal gain for stability. I burrito'd putting the yokes together so the shoulder seams are enclosed. I made the back pleat a bit wider to give some more room at the hips.

What you can't see, because I didn't unroll the sleeves is that the shirt has long sleeves with a tower placket and proper cuffs.  

While I can't currently button up this shirt and still move, it will get worn over a tank or cami.  It's a great layering piece.  

This is a good shirt pattern.  It currently fits through the shoulders, so I need to figure out what to do to add more width around the bust and hips - FBA?  Maybe.  While I don't have a large bust, I do have a large rib cage and a FBA might give me enough room to be able to button this button up shirt.  Hmmm, let me add this project to the ever growing list of things to make. :)

How would you fix this pattern so the shirt can button and movement would be possible?  

Blue Stripe Rivermont

I am a cashmerette tester - and for the most part I love it!  Any time I'm unhappy with the finished garment - well it's always my own fault.  No matter how many times I take my measurements and if I'm standing up or sitting down - I almost always come out with a garment that's too big the first go round.  

Take - my tester version of the Rivermont for example.  Too big - but it's super comfortable and snuggly warm and I wear it all winter!

This is my second version of the rivermont.  I wanted to try again and make a dress that was more my size!  The fabric is from Girl Charlee from 6 or more years ago!  I made a dress for my 50th birthday from the same fabric and couldn't part with the remaining fabric. 

For this Rivermont - I used a pretty ITY left over from making a concord for the pockets and I used the same ITY to bind the neckline and sleeve hems - pulling it all together.  Actually - I think I inserted it like flat piping (and I did a pretty crap-tastic job of it!) but you can't tell from a galloping horse, so . . . .

It's amazing what actually making something up in your size will do for you! I feel amazing when I wear this dress.  Also, having a photographer who makes you laugh, helps a lot!  

Pretty sure I'm losing my balance here!  Other than using contrasting fabric for the pockets - no other changes were made to the pattern.  At some point, I'm going to make up the Rivermont top too.

The center back has a seam, but I made no attempts to match this fabric anywhere!  There are so many great places to take photos around Carriage Corner!  Thanks Carolyn :D 

Thinking about making up Rivermont?  Remember that dress will look better and you will feel better if you have some negative ease in the finished garment!  While this particular dress feels to 'fancy' to just throw on and wear while I'm making breakfast, I will add some more of these comfortable, easy to wear, easy to dress up or down Rivermonts to my closet - I'd like to say I'll a few in solid colors - but I know that won't happen - bring on the loud prints!  

Have you made a garment that you only sorta like the first go round but adore it the second time you made it?  Share them with me in the comments!  

Swing Dress

When a certain indy pattern designer came out with a fun and lovely swingy tee shirt dress - I really and I mean really - wanted it!  

But - I'm team pattern pattern.  I'm also team trace because I like having the original pattern when I need to go back to it.

So, I chatted with my dear friend Carolyn - who took all of these photos - in fact, I still haven't even downloaded the photos that JB took alongside Carolyn.  Soon - Maybe I'll just have a "fashion show' post with the photos he took!

The pattern is New Look 6469 and it appears to still be available.  But it's just a swing dress with raglan sleeves.  I have very square shoulders so raglan sleeves are good for me!  

If I remember correctly - I added 2" to the length of this dress.  It was made the night I was suppose to be packing for our Italian vacation.  I made this dress again and added a bit more length for our last vacation and it got cut up into a top when we got home.  

The fabric was a 3 yard cut from Fabric Mart that I love!  It had been pulled from the closet more than once and put back because I didn't want to 'waste it.'

While I mostly wear this dress during the winter with tights and boots - it works just as well in the summer.  It might not be the most flattering for my shape - but it's comfortable and easy to wear. 

This pattern is still on my radar to make again - with contrast sleeves - as soon as I find the right combo of fabrics.  I'm thinking a floral with stripes or polka dots would be fun.  Also - I think it could be just a smidge shorter - maybe the 2" I added?  What are you thoughts?  Do you wear comfy dresses because they are easy even when they aren't the most flattering thing you own?