Grainline Myra

 I don't even remember when I 'applied' to be a Grainline tester. But I will admit to being very surprised when I received an email asking if I was interested with the line drawing attached.

 I was hooked as soon as I saw the back detail and that incredibly interesting back yoke shape.

 I feel so honored to have been chosen to be on the testing team for the new Grainline Myra. It was my first time testing for Grainline and I hope it won't be my last.

 From Grainline's website: 

Myra is a sophisticated slip dress and top with angled seam detailing, a square neckline, and spaghetti straps.  Dress Myra up or down with your fabric choice, and select from three length options to make a Myra that's perfect for any occasion.  

 Myra calls for light to medium woven fabrics and I used a fairly lightweight stretch poplin from FabricMart. The fabric was part of my dryer stash, that I'm trying to work through.

The first thing I did was send the pattern file to LaQuana for printing.  I don't need to start a test with problems of my own creating. Q's shop is called BlueCupShop on etsy and she's quick and reasonable. She also reached out to ask questions when I've sent a file that's 6 pages to see if I really need to the B cup files! I appreciate that! 

 After referring to my project notebook that I am being religious about keeping in 2023, I can tell you that I made the following alterations, to fit me:

• traced a size 18 at the bust graded to 20 at the hip;
• added 2" to the length;
• cut 4 straps so they were wide, the pattern has skinny straps
• raised the side slits by 3"
• added inseam pockets
• removed 3 1/2" from the strap length, although I might have been a bit aggressive with shortening the straps.

This dress was an easy sew with a unique look. That lovely back yoke creates a really interesting back view.

And I don't even have back fat pushing out of the top of my dress! And I don't need more room in the back, I'm not standing up straight, I have one hip hitched to the side :)

 Myra feels like the sheath dress I've been trying to make forever! I have plans for more. I have a lovely burnt orange linen to make a version for my solids loving daughter and I have enough of this floral left to make the top version.

 Because I added length, I also increased the length of the side slits. Myra has slits on both side seams. If she wasn't so long, you could alternatively leave a slit in the center back seam.

 

Myra feels like all sass! At least in this bright floral version.

 Finally, in the interest of full disclosure. I should tell you that I've gifted this version to my solids loving daughter. And that I took all my own photos for this blog post.

Saved By A Friend

 Actually, this entire dress is thanks to a friend.  

I had a very pretty piece of green linen in my fabric closet.  I didn't remember where it came from when I originally pulled it.  Because, honestly, for years I was *afraid* of linen.  

I love my first linen hope so much, that I decided to make another.  I asked Carolyn which piece of fabric I should use and she suggested one that I wasn't quite ready to sew up.  So, I pulled this beautiful piece from the shelve.

But here's where everything went sideways.  I have this really bad habit of cutting out just the bodice and then setting it aside.  Then when I'm ready to start, I'll construct the bodice and figure out how long the skirt can be when I get there.

Well, once I got started on it, there wasn't enough fabric for a skirt of any length at all!  OH No! At this point, I sent some photos to Carolyn (which is a pretty regular part of any garment I'm making) and she commented, 'You're using my fabric!' Well, that answered the where the fabric came from.  Carolyn most likely gifted it to me to convince me to use linen.

I asked if she had more, and she did.  It was a piece where she had to purchase lots and had given away 3 yard pieces.  Way back in December, I took a day when I wasn't busy and I drove out to visit with her.  The visit was the reason for the day trip to New Jersey and the rest of the fabric was a bonus!

There are really no changes to this dress.  I had previously lowered the neckline and for this version I added inch wide elastic in the sleeve hems.

And that's about all there is to say about this Style Arc Hope Woven Dress.  The pattern is a gem.  If you haven't made it, you really should consider it!

Backing Fabric Myosotis

 Sometimes I wish I had Roisin's knack for naming a dress, because mostly mine are called what they are:  they type of fabric combined with the pattern name and there you have it!  And this is no different.

  Earlier this year, I had Bird-in-Hand Fabrics quilt a quilt top that I had made years and years ago.  Why is this important?  Because I fell in love with the backing fabric that I picked out.

Blush Amelia by P&B Textiles

 I could see it as a long, button front myosotis dress!  Only this time, I wanted just a few things different. 

 I started with the bodice from the myosotis take 3 but added a collar and collar stand and ties from the front darts.  I will say, this was a little challenging to make, mostly because I was flying by the seat of my pants.  Since I had cut the neckline slightly deeper in the back and lower in the front, I ended up making the collar twice so that it actually fit.  And now, thinking about it 2 weeks after I made it, I cannot remember which collar fit.  Oh well, I kept all the correct pattern pieces (I hope).

 Also, at some point during construction, I freaked out and thought I was going to have to buy more fabric.  Not really sure why.  Oh, wait, because I thought I would use one width for the back of the skirt and one for the front.  Umm, the fabric is 108" wide - there was plenty!  

  I knew from measuring my blue floral dress that I needed 40" of finished length on the skirt.  I wanted this dress to have a deep hem, so I cut the fabric for the skirt portion at 44" and then I cut 1/4 of the width from each selvedge, so that there was one large piece 52" wide for the back of the skirt.  Selvedges to the center front and I added my favorite side seam pockets to the skirt front pieces.

   

 Once the skirt was constructed, I pressed up for the hem, but did that last.  Then I made the two ties.  They were cut from 'scraps of fabric' 3" wide and folded in half, turned, pressed and then topstitched.  I then carefully tucked the ties into the front waist darts before sewing them up.  

  I also sewed the collar and topstitched it before adding the collar stand.  And because I used all the facing pieces, I literally just sandwiched the collar between the bodice and the facing.  Is it the right way to do it?  Maybe no.  Did it work?  Absolutely!  Would I do it this way again? In a heartbeat! 

 When I gather the skirt onto the bodice, I try to the leave the center front flat.  So, for this pattern that means the gathers don't start until the front waist dart and then gather around to the other waist dart.  It seems to work for me. 

 And that added waist tie?  It's just tied loosely in the back.  Not really pulling anything in, just adding a little something extra!

  This extra wide backing fabric is so soft and so pretty - I can't wait to wear this dress all the time.  And buy some more fabric from this line.  I bought 2 1/2 yards and could have gotten away with 2.  I have only tiny scraps left over.