Cashmerette Hack

It's a known fact that I am a Cashmerette pattern tester.  I tested the concord when it first came out and made a tee for Jessica.

I've made a few for me - but because I always think my hips are bigger than they are, I don't always love the fit.

Earlier this year - I made a dress before we went on vacation.  Problem is - I don't love the dress, but I love the fabric.  So, I found a way to save it.

I'm pretty sure this is the only photo of this fabric as a dress.  I laid it out on my cutting table before I cut it.  I loved the fabric, I bought it at Fabric Mart in November when I was starting Christmas sewing.  It's a really soft, brushed poly.  There were scraps left that I was hoping to use for Eleanor - but it's all gone now!

I knew I wanted a deep cowl - not sure why, but I did.  So, first I pulled a vogue pattern, but there was no way it was going to fit!  Then I grabbed renfrew - but it's been years and many pounds since I made that top and it fit me well.  So - Concord it is!

I started by tracing the top in my size WITHOUT grading up for the hips.  I used the EF Cup size, the scoop neck, tunic length and long sleeves.  I didn't want any bands, so I added 3" of length to the sleeves.  Then, I tried to fit the cowl onto the scraps that I had saved for Eleanor.  There wasn't enough to the cut the cowl piece on the fold and there definitely wasn't enough to cut 2 of them!

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Deep stash to the rescue.  I came up with a piece of pale pink mesh knit and used it for the underside of the cowl.  Jay thought it was fun when I pulled it over my head like a hood - but you can see the pink here.  Here is what I did to get a cowl that worked with the concord neckline.  First I compared the necklines of the two patterns by laying renfrew over concord.  I can tell that the front necklines were similar enough, but the back of the concord was wider.  So - I laid the cowl pattern on my fabric and cut it out - adding 3 inches at the fold.  Then I realize the cowl was shaped to be deeper in the front and I had now skewed that to be at the shoulder seams on my top, so - I found the center of the new piece and drew a straight line, cut 2 on fold.  Done!  With the shaping at both shoulder seams. 

Look how long my hair is getting!  I really need to do something with it because I put it up when I'm in the kitchen for obvious reasons!  

The seam attaching the cowl to the top is on the outside of the garment - or the public side, because with a cowl like this the inside of your garment will show and I didn't want a visible seam.  I did have to pin and make sure I put the cowl on with the fabrics in the correct orientation so the pink didn't show.  The correct way is wrong sides together - so pink to the back of the fashion fabric.  Sew the seam, trim the seam, then topstiched it to the cowl. 

The sleeves are a bit too long but I don't mind.  I only put a 1" hem in them which would have been enough if I had accounted for seam allowances in lengthening my sleeves - instead, I just added the width of the sleeve band to the sleeve - so that means my sleeves are smidge too long.  I also put a 1" hem in the top.  I think this well get lots of wear - it works with my beekeeper cardigan too!