August 22, 2019

Pink Striped Shirt

My blog titles have got so creative, haven't they?  This is an old, old shirt.  I bought the fabric from Style Maker Fabrics and honestly, it got washed, ironed, cut and sewn up fairly quickly.  I think it was early 2018 when I ordered the fabric.  See, at the time I was working on a fair isle yoked sweater that really, really needed a button up to wear under it. 

You might be asking yourself why?  Because 1.) I love the look of a shirt coming out from under a pullover - the shirttail hems, the cuffs and the collar - it's just classic and b) the sweater was being knit from lopi - which is itchy as all get out.

For whatever reasons, I didn't finish the sweater.  It was a test knit and there were sizing issues FOR ME. 

I used New Look 6470 for the shirt and very carefully measured myself and then the pattern flat.  I added some space where needed.  I worked on the shirt during Spring Sew Camp 2018.  I knew as I was working on it that it wasn't going to fit me.  But I plodded on.  I'm glad I finished it. 

For the back yoke, I cut the piece in half and added a seam allowance and then cut the stripes on the bias.  The yoke facing was cut on the normal gain for stability. I burrito'd putting the yokes together so the shoulder seams are enclosed. I made the back pleat a bit wider to give some more room at the hips.

What you can't see, because I didn't unroll the sleeves is that the shirt has long sleeves with a tower placket and proper cuffs.  

While I can't currently button up this shirt and still move, it will get worn over a tank or cami.  It's a great layering piece.  

This is a good shirt pattern.  It currently fits through the shoulders, so I need to figure out what to do to add more width around the bust and hips - FBA?  Maybe.  While I don't have a large bust, I do have a large rib cage and a FBA might give me enough room to be able to button this button up shirt.  Hmmm, let me add this project to the ever growing list of things to make. :)

How would you fix this pattern so the shirt can button and movement would be possible?  

August 8, 2019

And I Was Doing So Well - Meet My Challenge Fabric

So you may have heard that at the first 4.5 day Carriage Corner Sew Camp - there was a fabric challenge.  I was able to partner with Fabric Mart and get a ton of yardage of a beautiful piece of fabric for the group.  You can read more about how the fabric was picked and how the challenge originated over at CarriageCornerSewCamps blog.
The Challenge Fabric
I had big plans for my challenge fabric.  I thought it might be a dover dress ala Carolyn and I cut a 'muslin' from a beautiful linen I had in my stash, but didn't love it.  The fabric will be cut up into napkins and so there will be no photos.  But, I haven't given up on Dover and will try again, just with a fabric with a bit more body.

Then I thought maybe I could make a pencil skirt for my daughter.  Tossed about making Eleanor some jeans from it.  Finally - I decided to revisit Helen's Closet York Pinafore.  Revisit, you ask?  You aren't aware that I tested the new expanded sizes of the York for Helen because 1.) I'm a terrible blogger; and B.) it's too big!! 

My York Tester Version
So, using what I knew from the first version, I retraced the sides of the pattern and that helped, but it wasn't enough.  So then I used a trick I learned in a Peggy Sager's class years and years ago.  Baste the skirt portion together then try it on.  This next part is easier with a friend - pin it to you shape, as fitted as you want it.  Then carefully slip out of the garment.  Next, line your hip curve ruler up with the pins until you find the match.  Make note of the where on the ruler YOUR hip curve falls.  Transfer that to your pattern.

 basted skirt pinned to fit, using hip curve ruler to find my hip curve
transferring to my pattern
In the first hip curve picture, is my second 'wearable muslin' of York.  I used this fabric to get my waist and hip fit properly - and I'm so much happier with how this version fits!

Next up - cutting my challenge fabric.  I played with the layout on the border print fabric and ended up fussy cutting my York.  I didn't want the black at both the shoulders and the hem.  I cut the fabric using mostly using the floral - there's a little bit of the fade at the sides and I fussy cut a hem band to get enough length. 

I made my own bias tape for this dress and bound all the seams.  I have never made anything with bound seams before.  I've used bias tape to finish a neckline, but never bound the seams.  Because I still wanted them to open flat, I bound the sides and the hem band seam separately.  Also, because I only had 2 yards, I put inseam pockets into this version - and then I panicked that they were going to pull at the hips and be a bad choice - but I didn't want black pockets breaking up the print.  

Insides of my challenge york
All in all - I'm really happy with how this turned out.  The only change I might make - is to go back and sew the pockets to the front so they don't droop and pull at the hips.  

Will I make York again?  Not sure, I now have 2 versions that I love, but I do think that I couldn't go wrong with a denim version.  

What for a full round up of all the challenge fabric garments coming soon!  

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