Grainline Myra

 I don't even remember when I 'applied' to be a Grainline tester. But I will admit to being very surprised when I received an email asking if I was interested with the line drawing attached.

 I was hooked as soon as I saw the back detail and that incredibly interesting back yoke shape.

 I feel so honored to have been chosen to be on the testing team for the new Grainline Myra. It was my first time testing for Grainline and I hope it won't be my last.

 From Grainline's website: 

Myra is a sophisticated slip dress and top with angled seam detailing, a square neckline, and spaghetti straps.  Dress Myra up or down with your fabric choice, and select from three length options to make a Myra that's perfect for any occasion.  

 Myra calls for light to medium woven fabrics and I used a fairly lightweight stretch poplin from FabricMart. The fabric was part of my dryer stash, that I'm trying to work through.

The first thing I did was send the pattern file to LaQuana for printing.  I don't need to start a test with problems of my own creating. Q's shop is called BlueCupShop on etsy and she's quick and reasonable. She also reached out to ask questions when I've sent a file that's 6 pages to see if I really need to the B cup files! I appreciate that! 

 After referring to my project notebook that I am being religious about keeping in 2023, I can tell you that I made the following alterations, to fit me:

• traced a size 18 at the bust graded to 20 at the hip;
• added 2" to the length;
• cut 4 straps so they were wide, the pattern has skinny straps
• raised the side slits by 3"
• added inseam pockets
• removed 3 1/2" from the strap length, although I might have been a bit aggressive with shortening the straps.

This dress was an easy sew with a unique look. That lovely back yoke creates a really interesting back view.

And I don't even have back fat pushing out of the top of my dress! And I don't need more room in the back, I'm not standing up straight, I have one hip hitched to the side :)

 Myra feels like the sheath dress I've been trying to make forever! I have plans for more. I have a lovely burnt orange linen to make a version for my solids loving daughter and I have enough of this floral left to make the top version.

 Because I added length, I also increased the length of the side slits. Myra has slits on both side seams. If she wasn't so long, you could alternatively leave a slit in the center back seam.

 

Myra feels like all sass! At least in this bright floral version.

 Finally, in the interest of full disclosure. I should tell you that I've gifted this version to my solids loving daughter. And that I took all my own photos for this blog post.

Style Arc Hope Woven Dress

 Just like most of my stories, this one begins with something that Carolyn introduced me to.  This time, it was a new account on Instagram that I wasn't following.  I'm willing to be that you already follow Birdy-Sew-Obsessed, but I didn't before Carolyn and I were chatting about something she made.

I followed as Birdy made a Style Arc Hope Woven Dress in her stories and loved it!  It absolutely didn't hurt that she made hers from black and white gingham and I'm still in need of replacing my absolute favorite dress.

This all must have happened around October last year, because I was on a mission to replace my black and white gingham ESP by Decades of Style.  Also, if you've made this dress and like me, think the neckline is too high, see the 2015 post linked about for how to lower the neckline and adjust the sleeves.

Because I've fussed with the bodice of my ESP pattern since making the Picnic Dress, I know that the bodice needs some fine tuning before I'm really happy with it again.  And for the record - I still wear that dress I made in 2015 because I have yet to make another fabulous dress.  Anyway . . . 

I received a gift certificate for my birthday and used it to buy the Hope Woven Dress pattern.  Then I carefully took my measurements and using the finished garment measurement decided which size to make.  I then pulled a really fun floral linen bought at FabricMart during a #CarriageCornerSewCamp

The dress is a quick sew - even adding pockets.  I use this method of putting pockets in skirts and pants.  It's really easy. Also, using Teri's method for putting in the pockets, still lets you add pockets, even when you don't have enough fabric.  In fact, I often use complimentary fabric for the first piece sewn on.  The only step I do that Teri doesn't show in the story highlight I linked to (Sorry if you aren't on instagram, I couldn't find any video's for putting pockets in this way.) is that I like to also sew my pockets to the front of whatever I'm making.  The benefit of this is that when you put your phone in your pocket, the weight doesn't pull the pocket down pulling everything out of alignment.   Also, don't make your pocket opening too large, just large enough for your hand.

If I remember correctly, the changes I made were to cut the back on the fold eliminating the button loop closure and I lowered the neckline a little bit. For future versions, I would like to try lengthening the sleeves about an inch.

Also, because this dress has a full gathered skirt - I didn't use the skirt pieces.  I just gathered 2 full width lengths of my fabric.  Clear as mud, right?

I don't think the photos show how truly oversized this dress is on me.  Even using the closed finish garment measurements vs my pattern size.  But I love this dress - the print makes it fun, the full skirt and full gathered sleeves give it drama and it has pockets! 

In my search for the perfect gingham to remake my favorite dress, I bought a purple uneven plaid.  I retraced the bodice 2 sizes smaller to get a closer fit.  Well, that ended up with very unattractive folds going from the bust to the bottom of the raglan seam.  I finished that dress as a maxi and gave it to my daughter - who says it's too large (also maybe a little bit sister-wife-ish).  But I will keep trying to get a fit closer to what Lisa from Mabel the Mannequin has achieved.

So, I'm curious - what do you think about this sorta shapeless dress trend?  I like it, but I think it can be hard to pull off well.  Of course, it absolutely won't stop me from trying ;)

MYOSOTIS - Take 3

 Let's jump right in with the pattern picture, because ya know what?  Mine doesn't look like this.  In fact, only one version even comes close to looking like this.

This is the Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe patterns.  I bought the pattern at FabricMart during a Carriage Corner Sew Camp in either late 2019 or 2020.

During a 2021 pre-vacation must sew a new wardrobe frenzy - I made my first version (promise, I will take photos and blog it soon).  Anyway, that version is fun, but it has issues.

Take a page from Carolyn's book and maxi-fied the dress.  I also used the SunnyGal tutorial to open the neckline up, bring the armholes in and skip the collar.

The fabric was bought at Hobby Lobby on sale and it was so pretty, I just couldn't pass it up.  You know me and a dark floral ::swoon::

Yesterday, I rearranged some of the furniture in our bedroom and pulled out my real camera.  It's nothing fancy and I could use some work on settings rather than leaving everything on auto, but this will do for now.  

All of the pattern changes are to the bodice.  Without looking, I can't even tell you what size I made - remember, I made this dress last August!  What I can tell you is that I moved the shoulders forward 1/2", I lowered the front waist 1/2" so the waist is level.  I used my french curve to bring the armholes in and then I used matching bias to finish them.  I opened the neckline up 1" and honestly, it could use a smidgen more room, and then I redrafted the neckline facings.

Sorry - for the blurry photo - again, figuring it out.  This is the best shot of the back & side that I got.  

For the skirt, I just used 2 width of fabric pieces.  I left the selvedges on the opening side and cut 3" wide interfacing the length of the skirt.  That was then folded in half to create a fully functioning button front.

But, rather than buttons, I used pink pearl snaps.  I am able to purchase these snaps in my favorite dry goods store in town for around $2 a dozen and they work with my snap source snap setter.  I have always liked the look of buttons grouped together, so I decided to put 2 snaps as close together as I could get them with the snap setter, about 1/2" apart.  I think if I had snap pliers, I could have placed them closer together, but it's fine the way it is.  The pairs of snaps are then positioned 2" between each pair.

Final verdict:  I love this dress!  It's swishy and fun and it has pockets!  In fact, I love this version so much, I'm tempted to take V.2 apart to remake the bodice.  If you follow me on Instagram you would have seen V.2 - it's the short border print version made in July 2021!

As I wear the garments I've made in the last couple of years, I will do my best to take some better photos with some different poses!

Fall Ottobre Dress

I have long been on the lookout for an easy to wear, dress up or down tee shirt dress!  Even though I have a great pattern - I'm still always looking for the next best thing.  Why is that?

But truthfully, when I have a beautiful piece of fabric, I go back to my Ottobre Tee Shirt Dress.  I first made this dress in 2013 and the only change I made to the pattern was to add 2 fisheye darts at the back waist.  At this point in time I think I've made 7 dresses from this pattern and see no reason to stop anytime soon! 

I've used ponte, ITY, and a painted sweater knit.  This dress just works for me!  The pattern, if you are wondering, is from 5/2013 and it's the Friday Evening Dress (4B).

The Fall version of this dress was made in January 2018 in a last minute rush to make something new for me to wear on vacation!  This dress is so easy for me to whip up and know it's gonna fit and i'm going to feel great wearing it. 

This time I used a beautiful Fall color ITY from FabricMart.  I can make this raglan sleeved dress with just over a yard of 60" wide fabric and have it done in about 2 hours from cutting to hemming.

This dress kept me warm and feeling good while we traipsed all over Italy & France worn with knee high boots and tights. 

I don't even mind how my back view look when wearing the Ottobre dress.  With 4 darts - 2 shoulder and the 2 added fisheye darts in the back to counteract sway back pooling, 4 raglan seams, and then 4 hems - it's a quick one!

The dress doesn't really cup my rear, but the wind was blowing.  It does, however, hug closer to my back thanks to the added darts. 

If you have this issue of Ottobre - try this dress!  I don't think you'll be mad about it.  You can see some of my many versions of this dress. There will be more - I already have one made up from a FabricMart bundle that's just waiting for photos.

Another Day, Another Dress

Another ESP Dress That Is

I have been making the Decades of Style ESP Dress for the past 4 years.  I have 5 versions currently in my closet and one when to the goodwill.  

I have altered the pattern to have a lower neck thanks to instructions from the lovely people at Decades of Style.  Here's the instructions, if you want to do the same. 

This summer - I decided at the very last minute to play along with the Sewcialists mini challenge.  The summer challenge was to work from the colors in the Sewcialists logo based on a spin telling you which color to use.  I spun coral - but honestly, my dress has most of the logo colors in it.  I cut and sewed the dress up in about 9 hours.  

 Almost all of my recent blog pictures have been taken by Carolyn and this dress is no exception.  She decided to come to Carriage Corner for a weekend at the end of August.  We took a trip to Winterthur to see the Costuming the Crown exhibit and she photographed several finished garments for me.

One of my biggest complaints about this dress is that the neckline is just too wide.  It literally falls off my shoulders, bra straps showing, the works - but they are comfortable and I love wearing them.  Well, while Carolyn was taking photographs she pointed out that both the bodice back & front were gaping a little bit and that I should alter my pattern to take 1/4" out of the center front at the very top.  Hmmm, interesting - that would also solve my wide neckline problem because it would bring the shoulders in.  Live and learn, girls, live and learn.

My to-sew list is feeling a bit out of control, but getting added to is really soon is another ESP dress with the center fronts altered.  I'm pretty sure I'll have to add the zipper back into the pattern, but that's easy.  I also feel like the bodice {now that I've taken it in just a smidge} is a bit too long, so that's another adjustment to make.

But the back waist seems to be just fine - probably because I've perfected my sway/short back adjustments for this pattern.  

One other trick that I really like to do on dresses with pockets?  Or anything with pockets for that matter - is to stitch the pockets in place on the front of the garment.  

So - look for another ESP dress soon-ish.  Which in my current world means within the year :D

Also, can I just say that I'm so happy I finally got my hair cut from the length in these pictures and got new glasses!  

The Simplicity Dress

I don't know if you've figured this out yet or not, but Carolyn is a style icon for me.  Especially as her style has evolved at her 'new job,' I find her style really suits me in my role as Innkeeper. 

What you probably don't know is that Carolyn and I are friends in real life.  We chat daily and often, if I'm headed to the craft store for patterns, I'll pick some up for her as well.  Consequently, we have many of the same patterns and she generally sews them up first, but I beat her to the punch with Simplicity 8551.

During the Fall 2018 Sew Camp, I actually bought fabric to make this dress.  The fabric is a lightweight quilting cotton.  Handling it at FabricMart, I thought it had a bit more drape and would become really fluid with washing - I was wrong.  But I still love this dress.

When I originally cut this dress out, I added 5" to the sleeve length.  I ended up taking that out and I wish I hadn't.  The sleeves are just a tad too short for my liking - so I always push them up.  In my way of thinking - long sleeves are kinda like long hair: if you're always going to push them up they might as well be short. 

I had plans to sew this up right away and actually got around to it in November.  I asked for color suggestions for tights to wear with this dress in the winter and bought a pair of dark mustard colored leggings which I wear with it along with my favorite brown knee high boots. 

Other than the facing, there is nothing challenging about this dress.  The facing is interfaced, I did the sew the smooth side of the interfacing to the right side of the facing along the outside edges, then turn and fuse the interfacing into place.  This creates a much nicer edge than if I'd tried to turn it under evening and then just topstitch that edge into place.  Once the interfacing is applied, construct the facing as instructed. 

All in all, I really like this dress and could see more being added to my closet.  It's easy to wear and I feel put together and like myself while I'm making breakfast.  Because it has pockets, I can keep my phone with me while I'm cleaning rooms.  Since I push the sleeves up, they aren't dragging in any food.  So, on a scale of 1 -5; this pattern is a 5.  I'd like to try the view with the grommets in the neck facing - it's a fun look.  

Border Print Pembroke

I am a pattern tester for Cashmerette.  When Jenny reached out with the Pembroke for testing - I was totally down for it!  We were due to go to Seattle for a wedding and some new tee shirt dresses were just the ticket!  I made 3 before we went on vacation!

The first one I did just like Jenny's cover dress.  I added the sash - but didn't double the fabric because I was using a fairly substantial ponte knit and I didn't want the bulk of 2 layers.  I did hem the sash for some unknown reason.

Let me also say - I'm rubbish at grading between sizes for my hips.  It's like I have absolutely no idea how big they are!  I know what the tape measure tells me, but even with flat pattern measuring - my garments end up too big at the hips.  Frustrating!

I will say - with each dress, it got smaller and the sway back adjustment got bigger.  I know that Cashmerette has a built in sway back adjustment, but with my very short back length (15") and my prominent behind, I need more.

The second dress was white polka dots on a black ponte background.  I used a solid white ponte for the sleeves and neckband and the polka dots for the sleeve bands.

This dress was not long for the closet.  I think I wore it twice and the ponte pilled horribly.  I couldn't stand it.  I think I have a tiny big of the polka dots left, but I'm not sure I'll use them.  

The third version, I think, fits the best!  And it's my favorite.  The hot pink border was on the fabric and I cut it to use as the neck band.  I fussy cut the sleeves so the border was at the hem.  

The fabric is an ITY from FabricMart ordered in May of 2015 - so it only took 3 years to get sewn up!  

I like this dress in an ITY knit.  I'm finally happy with the length - neither too long nor too short.  

I love the little flippy side vent.  My versions are just slightly longer in the back - although it's not noticeable in this photo.  

While I do finally like this dress, I think the tunic version is next in my to make pile.  I love Carolyn's versions of the tunic with long sleeves and a turtleneck or cowl - I am smitten with Megan's Pembroke tunic dress and really want to add several versions like that to my closet. 

Megan's Beautiful Pembroke Tunic

Bring on the Sirens

Did you see part 1 of the Siren Sundress post?  Where I worked and worked on fitting the bodice?  Well that's because we were taking a cruise that year and I needed a new dress for the fancy dinner nights. 

I bought a beautiful silver metallic linen from Stone Mountain & Daughter to make the dress.  The fabric washed up beautifully and sewed like a dream, but it's a bit itchy to wear - I think it's the metallic thread running through the fabric. 

While I like this dress and it's still in my closet and I've even worn it since to other fancy events, I will say it's not my favorite and I don't think it's the most flattering thing I own.  There.  I think the problem is while the fit on the bust is good, it's really hard to tie the neck straps and have everything lay nicely.  Also - the center front seam creates an unattractive bulge in the front of the skirt.  That can be eliminated - but what to do about tying the darn thing? 

So, all in all, I think I'm done with this pattern. I can't remember if I cut the pattern or not - but if not, anyone interested in having the pattern?  Just comment with a way for me to reach you and I'll mail it to you. 

Siren Sundress - Part 1

This past was started as draft back in 2016 - oops.

Earlier this year, I won a pattern give-away from Stonemountain & Daughter.  It was during Indy Pattern Month and I won a pattern of my choosing from Decades of Style.  I chose to get the Siren Sundress pattern.

I received a direct message from Decades of Style that said the key to this dress fitting well is all in the bodice.  The message also said that if you have the fabric to make the ties wider - by an inch at least.

This dress is a double wrap.  The front is just a mock wrap - although it overlaps - as if it wrapped.  The real wrap happens in the back.  So - what I did was trace the bodice pieces and cut it out in lining fabric.  The first go round the bodice gaped at the front and the armhole and the back had all kinds of issues - it gaped and was too long.

So - I sliced and overlapped the front in 3 places and took out about 2" of length.  I also narrowed the bodice a bit at the shoulder.  I thought I took photos of that step, but clearly did not.  However, thanks to google photos I do have photos from a 3 year old project.  

For the back - I did the same - sliced and overlapped.  And this is why you trace a pattern.  Had I cut into them I would never know what the original pieces were meant to look like.  

In this photo you can see that the pieces are just too tall for my short back - see how the piece is folding up on itself?  I sent these photos to my sewing friends before moving on.  Keep in mind - I'm still using the lining fabric at this stage.  

Second back muslin.  It's getting better.  If I remember right I went straight to my full on muslin dress at this point.  I thought I had photos of me wearing it - but I could not find them in the google photos vault, so I'll show you on a hanger and then tell you that the dress is in the giveaway box.  And that I'm a tiny bit sad that this fabric is no longer available for my use.