June 26, 2023

It's Getting Wilder In Here

 I have long been attracted to the open necklines of garments like True Bias Roscoe Top, Friday Patterns Wilder Gown, and the Pattern Scout Poppy Blouse which is what happens if Roscoe & Wilder had a baby.

 I *love* the ruffle above the drawstring on the Wilder. I bought the Wilder pattern at FabricMart during a #CarriageCornerSewCamp weekend and finally in August of 2022, I sewed it up. In fact, I even bought the fabric for the version I'm sharing today. 

AND I found my notebook with the notes on what changes I made to the pattern. So, here are the changes I made to my wilder gown:

  • Size XL
  • slashed front and added 1" in width, so 2" overall
  • add 1/2" in length at center front, tapering to nothing at side seams
  • Tappered the front slit (I tend to be narrow in my upper chest) to 7/8" at the top.  I don't have pictures, but I just redrew this seam.
  • Cut the Skirt 31 1/8" long and put in a 2 3/4" hem.
  • removed 1 1/2" of width at back waist (with darts)
  • Lengthened & Widened the sleeves
  • used a short piece of elastic in the neckline, maybe 6" with ties sewn to both ends to help keep the neckline gathered
  • used 2 rows of elastic in the sleeves, with the first casing up about an inch from the fold, to mimic the ruffle at the neckline

The fabric for this dress is a crinkle challis from FabricMart and it was a splurge for me. Honestly, some days I love the dress and other days the print feels too childish. I bought enough to make a tiered maxi, but honestly, my day job isn't really conducive to maxi dresses. I'm often cleaning bathrooms and running up and down stairs - I don't need a dress getting in my way. So knee length it is.  

 It has pockets!  I first saw this method of putting in-seam pockets on Teri's instagram (Teridodds1) and I've used it ever since. In fact, I rarely use the pocket pattern piece as I've developed my perfect pocket over the years. It's large enough to hold my phone.  I do a few things different. Mostly, I serge the 2 pocket pieces together and then stitch them to the garment. When you use matching thread, nobody notices and the stitching keeps anything in your pocket from pulling it down.  

 I need to take photos of Wilder Gown #1 so you can see how taking the extra width out of the back was a good thing. 

 Also, with dresses like this were the skirt is just gathered to the bodice, I don't use the pattern piece. I use width of fabric and cut the length I need. I carefully mark the top of each piece of fabric so the print runs in the same direction as the bodice. As long as the bodice is fairly fitted, I don't mind the extra fabric in the skirt.

 This was the next oldest dress that Carolyn took photos of during her stay. 

 It's recently gotten hot and humid here in PA and I love wearing this dress when the weather is gross. Also, this is the summer that I wear shorts and I may use the rest of the fabric to make a tank for wearing with shorts.

So, have you tried Wilder? Do you love it or not? I think it's a fun pattern where the fabric makes it or breaks it! Also, it needs to fit through the bodice. I have fabric to make more, but I might let it sit for awhile.

June 19, 2023

Mod Print S8871

When your BFF comes to visit and offers to take photos of the things you have made but haven't photographed.  Well you take her up on it and you pull the armload of unblogged garments from your closet and you dance and laugh and she makes you look young and pretty!

We're going to start with the oldest make in the pile and the once I have the least information on.  According to the pattern envelope, this pattern was released in 2019.  And I know I bought it because Carolyn made a couple that were fantastic.  

S8871 c. 2019 now OOP

One thing I have learned in my sewing journey is if I admire a piece of fabric or a pattern that Miss C bought, I should buy it because at some point, I'm gonna wish I had.

In scrolling through my pictures, I found that the fabric was purchased on Sept. 9, 2019 during a #CarriageCornerSewCamp field trip to FabricMart. The fabric is a vibrant print linen and I purchased 3 yards.  There might even be some left.  I found a picture of the unfinished dress hanging up at the end of February 2020 and another of it lumped with my sewing fails from the majority of 2019.  

Sewing Fails

So, In all honesty, I can't tell you much about this dress.  What I can tell you is that I love the square neckline and I still think it might be a little too close fitting.  But as always happens, when Carolyn takes my pictures everything looks fabulous! 

I did pull the pattern and looked at my traced version and of course I didn't write down what size I traced or anything.  So, I literally have NO information.  The couple of things I feel confident tell you are these: 
  • I did not put a zipper in the back of the dress
  • I most likely did a 1.5" sway back adjustment, with .75" at the shoulder ala Nancy Zieman and the rest out of the low back
  • I added width to the sleeves

This dress sat in the unloved and unphotographed side of my closet until April of 2022 when I tried it on again. My size had changed a bit and I was willing to try it again.  

I think I've been convinced to keep this one and actually wear it.  So, does a couple years in the magic closet ever convince you to keep something that you thought was a fail?

Also, I'm curious - do you name your garments?  And how do you keep track of what you made along with size, alterations, etc.  
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