April 4, 2007


I have been sewing - really! Last weekend I got the lining for the upcoming black & white KS 3337 made, started the heck out of the hem, and then sewed a reinforced straight stitch with a wing needle just about 1/16" of an inch from the hem. I also did the same with a small scrap of the white cotton fabric. I have been trying out different crochet patterns on the small piece, but so far I haven't found anything I really liked. In the meantime I got the purple fabric at the left cut out for Simplicity 3877. I'm making the dress shown in orange on the left in the pictures, but adding long sleeves. I don't know why I think of this fabric as purple I guess it really is more purple than anything else, but after working on it for a bit, I think black is going to be the best choice for any seaming that will show. I had the perfect match in a lavender thread, but when I wound the bobbin, I emptied the spool! Isn't that always the way?
Prior to cutting into the fabric, I prewashed it. I prewash everything! If I can't throw it in the wash and at least hang dry, then it isn't practical for my life with 4 drooly dogs. There is rarely a day that goes by when I don't get drool on my work clothing. I also pulled out Sandra Betzina's Fabric Savvy to see how she suggests working with a poly silky. Her recommendation is to cut on the cross-grain to avoid puckering seams - so I did that. I am sewing with a slightly shorter stitch length and using a fine microtex needle. I also put microtex needles in my serger and threaded it up for a 4 thread overlock with shades of purple thread.
This fabric is ravelling like nobody's business. For whatever reason, I rarely construct with my serger. I use the sewing machine for construction and the serger for finishing. And I tend to overcast each edge individually so I can still press them open. I know it adds more time, but it makes me feel better about how the inside looks, so there!
I also found with this fabric that it's really difficult to get a nicely pressed edge. However, using the iron and pressing - not ironing - and then misting with my spray bottle and pressing again is working well. So far I have the fronts sewn together, the back darts sewn and the shoulder seams put together. I have overcast the edges on all 4 side seams. I overcast these edges before seaming because they don't get sewn all the way - one side gets left open for a zipper and the other gets a deliberate hole in the seam for the tie to go through. I was just about to sew these seams, when I realized I wanted to put the sleeves in flat so I could overcast the raw edges and it would be much easier to do flat then inserting the seams. One of the few seams where the raw edges will be serged together rather than separately is the armhole seams - just because it will be easier.
Okay - I am going to get the sleeves sewn in before I go to work today! So I guess I better publish this post and get busy!!!


  1. You are a sewing maniac! You are getting so much done and that purple/black will look FAB when done, I know it.

  2. I have the same fabric purchased from a Vogue Fabrics at an expo. Hmmm, I'll have to pull it out and decide what to do with it. I don't like hearing that it's "ravelling like nobody's business."

    I usually sew the same way you do. Seams on my sewing machine and then finish each sep. on my serger and press open.

  3. I need to buy this Simplicity pattern. The more I see this dress pattern, the more I like it. I have got fabric to make it as well. Can't wait to see yours made up!


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