Amish Wedding - Take 3

 In the past several years, we've made friends with several Amish families in our community. And being invited to attend a wedding is kind of a big deal. For the first 2 weddings we went to, I was given a sample of brides fabric to make something to wear. For this one, I bought fabric and made the Vali Dress by Pattern Fantastique

I had made a shirt version last fall, which I love. But that also let me figure out the tricky construction of this bodice.

I bought 4 yards of a navy tonal poly fabric. I used my favorite pocket construction vs. the weirdly cut on pockets in the pattern. 

And because I had made it before, I knew from the top version what changes I wanted to make to the dress. 

Last year I started keeping a notebook of my sewing.  It's the first thing I've really stuck with and I'm glad I did, because my alteration notes are there.  

They say that I added 2" to the skirt length.  I was aiming for maxi and clearly hit midi, which is okay.  I cut a size 20 yoke, but then I cut the 26 sleeve and skirt.  I also put the skirt 2" off the fold for even more room.  What this essentially did was give me more gathers at the top of the sleeve and center front of the skirt.

This is a fun, flowy dress that definitely needs accessories to break it up. While I love how it looks on others, it's honestly not my favorite. All of that being said, this was the perfect dress to wear to an Amish wedding and I received a ton of compliments.

Pictures:  Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

Fabric: Poly something from Belmont Fabric, $6/yard. I had 4 yards

Pattern:  Vali Dress

Sewn:  January 2024

There's Something About Pattern Testing

 I'm not gonna lie, being chosen to be a pattern tester feels good.  It feels like you weren't chosen last for whatever game it is, finally! 

I have been a Chalk & Notch fan since winning a copy of the Pony Tank back in 2017 apparently! So, when the call went out for testers for the Ivie dress, well, I couldn't apply fast enough!

This was my first version and I've already made a second.  For this version I used a cotton lawn from Fabric Mart that I bought last summer, maybe the summer before.  I made a size 22AB and I could have gone up to the CD cup bodice. 

I used my favorite method of installing side pockets, they're only on the front! Style Arc seems to have the only tutorial I can find online. The reason I use this pocket installation is that I can stitch the pocket to the skirt and it helps keep whatever you've put in your pocket from pulling your dress down. 

The only other change I made was to add a third section to the bottom ruffle and that's because that's all the fabric that I had left!  I didn't want to keep a piece that *small.* so fuller bottom ruffle! 

This dress feels a little closer fitting than I'm generally used to and on occasion I feel a bit little house on the prairie, but I love it and have worn it quite a bit this summer. 

I'm really loving midi length or what I would have called tea length growing up. Funny how being 60 and running up and down stairs all day changes your mind on how 'too short' feels. 

Photos:  Carolyn

Pattern:  Chalk & Notch Ivie

Fabric:  FabricMart

Verdict:  Winner :)

This IS My Dress

 Apparently I'm just a Style Arc Fangirl now.  I love my hope dresses, but even more than Hope - I love the Nova Midi Dress.  

It was love at first sight with my very first version, with the only changes to lower the neckline a bit more and add pockets. I wear both version of this dress weekly in the summer and I wear them with sweaters, tights and boots in the winter. 

JB and I try to take a nice vacation yearly. Since I'm not knitting as much as I once was, I try to bring a piece of fabric home from vacation. 

This past January we went to Cancun and while we had an incredibly relaxing time, I'm not in a big hurry to go back. The main reason why - it's just too far from everything. You really have to do all inclusive because there's no place to eat, except at the resort.

Anyway - I bought back this beautiful 3 meter piece of challis that was roughly $4 a meter.

There's not much to say about this dress. I mostly followed the pattern. I did lower the neckline, by 1.5" overall.

(geeze, we really need to pain that light post)

I also added pockets, I used lining fabric for the first pocket piece sewed onto the front, then same fabric for the pocket back. Due to the gathers, I did not stitch the pockets to the front skirt pieces, but I did stitch them to the waist seam.

For this dress, once I had attached each gather, I then serged the seam, pressed it up and then topstitched it. 

While I still don't like how I look in photos - please don't come at me. The menopausal weight is just weighing heavy on me currently. Do yourself a favor and find a friend who makes you feel beautiful when they take your photo.  All photos in this post were taken by Carolyn.

I am currently evaluating all of the challis in my fabric closet for more Novas. And I really, really want to make one in graduating sizes of gingham.  

Let's Catch UP a Little

 When last we met up with our intrepid heroine, she was posting end of summer sewing plans - FOR 2023!  Let's just see how that worked out, shall we?

First up: Nova - made with a challis bought in Mexico in January and sewn up in time to wear on another vacation to Mexico in November.

Second: -That pumpkin coffee print has been sewn and worn multiple times.  

Third: I believe I put this back, but I'm going to have to look. Because I vaguely remember making it, but there's no photographic evidence.

Fourth: I made the flannel PJ top, but not this linen, yet. Also, I don't really love the top, so . . . 

Fifth: I tested the Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress in the extended sizes.  I loved making this dress.  I love the pocket construction and how fun it is (I've even used it on a few of JB's shirts) but I'm having a moment with how I look currently and I'm not in love with any of the photos. 

Sixth:  While I did make a Vali top in October and I also sewed up the beautiful red toile like fabric, the two did not come together. Look for a blog post on this dress soon.

Seven, Eight & Nine have not been touched at all. 

Ten: Eleanor did get a new robe for her birthday.  However, Gigi got a new sewing machine for Christmas and I could not figure out how to get E's monogram from my embroidery stick into the machine (still haven't figured it out 8 months later). And all her dolls got matching robes & pjs - blog post on that too

End of Summer Sewing Plans

 I've got plans, they're multiplying! I figure if I lay them out here, there's a better chance they'll get done.

First: I have another Style Arc Nova Midi Dress cut out, this one's for me.  But I'm not sure I can currently face all the gathering after having just finished one for the solids loving daughter.

Second: I have a fall themed coffee print designated for a shirt for JB. In fact, I ironed the fabric and started cutting it - 2 days ago. I still only have the left front, both sleeves and one collar cut out.  

Third: I have a pretty knit on my table to make that same solids loving girl a knee length dress in her favorite muumuu pattern. This has been pulled since I made her a new maxi version after she had some surgery this summer and easy slip on dresses were her best friend.

Fourth: I bought a beautiful piece of linen at fabricmart this summer when I roadtripped with Marjie (I'm still mad that she found the black floral linen before I did) that wants to be a Peplum Split Tank. This is a trial run of the pjs I want to make for Christmas.

Fifth: I'm participating in another test that I'm really excited about and I've pulled and prepped the fabric for that. The fabric was another FabricMart retail store find and I couldn't decide if I wanted a shirt or a dress, so I bought it all. At $2/yard, why not?

Sixth: Vali dress with a pretty toile-like linen from FabricMart. I can't remember if I ordered it or bought it at the retail store during a SewCamp, either way, it's gorgeous! I think this might be my birthday dress this year.

Seven & Eight: don't have to get done this summer, but they are Christmas or possibly January birthday gifts. I have some fun fabrics to make a couple of Boundless Carryalls. I might use a different pattern for the one of the fabrics, but I want to use the faux leather for the bottom.

Nine: at least one tee for a special Ernie & Bert loving little boy.

Ten: Photoless project. Miss E asked if I'd make her a new robe. We just planned our next trip to see the grands and while I don't have to take them something every time I see them, it's nice. But also, her robe could be a project for Christmas or her birthday in January. Plus, being the crazy Gigi that I am, I decided when I bought the fabric that her dolls should have matching robes.

We'll see how much I can get checked off this list :) 

Grainline Myra

 I don't even remember when I 'applied' to be a Grainline tester. But I will admit to being very surprised when I received an email asking if I was interested with the line drawing attached.

 I was hooked as soon as I saw the back detail and that incredibly interesting back yoke shape.

 I feel so honored to have been chosen to be on the testing team for the new Grainline Myra. It was my first time testing for Grainline and I hope it won't be my last.

 From Grainline's website: 

Myra is a sophisticated slip dress and top with angled seam detailing, a square neckline, and spaghetti straps.  Dress Myra up or down with your fabric choice, and select from three length options to make a Myra that's perfect for any occasion.  

 Myra calls for light to medium woven fabrics and I used a fairly lightweight stretch poplin from FabricMart. The fabric was part of my dryer stash, that I'm trying to work through.

The first thing I did was send the pattern file to LaQuana for printing.  I don't need to start a test with problems of my own creating. Q's shop is called BlueCupShop on etsy and she's quick and reasonable. She also reached out to ask questions when I've sent a file that's 6 pages to see if I really need to the B cup files! I appreciate that! 

 After referring to my project notebook that I am being religious about keeping in 2023, I can tell you that I made the following alterations, to fit me:

• traced a size 18 at the bust graded to 20 at the hip;
• added 2" to the length;
• cut 4 straps so they were wide, the pattern has skinny straps
• raised the side slits by 3"
• added inseam pockets
• removed 3 1/2" from the strap length, although I might have been a bit aggressive with shortening the straps.

This dress was an easy sew with a unique look. That lovely back yoke creates a really interesting back view.

And I don't even have back fat pushing out of the top of my dress! And I don't need more room in the back, I'm not standing up straight, I have one hip hitched to the side :)

 Myra feels like the sheath dress I've been trying to make forever! I have plans for more. I have a lovely burnt orange linen to make a version for my solids loving daughter and I have enough of this floral left to make the top version.

 Because I added length, I also increased the length of the side slits. Myra has slits on both side seams. If she wasn't so long, you could alternatively leave a slit in the center back seam.

 

Myra feels like all sass! At least in this bright floral version.

 Finally, in the interest of full disclosure. I should tell you that I've gifted this version to my solids loving daughter. And that I took all my own photos for this blog post.

Donny Dress Hack

 As so many of my projects do, I was inspired by a dress I saw on Instragram.  This time it was thats.sew.sandy - and she hacked the Friday Pattern Co. Donny Shirt into a dress.  Yep!  I can totally get behind that. I waiting until FPC had their sale and then sent the pattern off to Blue Cup Shop for printing. 

 I'm not sure what I was working on when the pattern arrived, but I didn't get to it right away.  Although I did pull fabric and put it with the pattern immediately.

 The fabric is a poly cotton, mostly cotton based on the wrinkling, that I most likely got at an Amish shop. There was no identifiers on the fabric.  I've been 'collecting' gingham and plaid for about 18 months now, and I thought this would be a great Summer dress. 

 It wasn't until I was cutting, that I realized the plaid was uneven and it took a lot more brain power to match the stripes across the center front.  If you look close, you'll see I came close, but it's not quite right.  But who's looking that close?!

 I also knew I wanted to add piping. I didn't have enough small cording in my collection, so I made a quick trip to Cedar Lane and bought 10 yards of piping, which I took apart for the cord.  I pulled a green polka dot cotton from the closet and used that.  It matches the green in the stripes perfectly.

I traced the size XL and made all my "standard" adjustments, which is a 3/4" sway back adjustment. I traced the pattern with a 7" finished side seam for the bodice and I think it's the perfect place for the waist to hit me. For future makes, I'll add about an inch to the center front so that seam hangs even.

 

I took great pains to match the plaid at the side seams and added a bias cut panel on the back pocket piece. 

 The skirt is just 2 lengths of fabric gathered into the waist.  Pockets added to the front. Oh, I don't know what I was thinking, but I originally cut the skirt pieces at 37". I mean, how tall do I think I am?!  Of course the inspo dress was more tea length than knee, but . . . 

 I'm curious, do you consider adding a gathered rectangle to a shirt pattern a hack? I'd love to know what you think a hack is.  

Birthday Dress - 2022 Edition

 For years, I have made myself a birthday dress. Sometimes we go away, sometimes we go out to dinner, but mostly these days I have to work.  

Anyway, last year I made Style Arc Naomi and it was a bust. There are no photos, it just wasn't a good style for me. BUT the sleeves are amazing!  So - I laid the True Bias Southport bodice over the Naomi and traced naomi's armscye, front and back. I also raised the front neckline on Southport a little bit.  

The skirt is folded over the hanger bar inside the bodice in this picture, but can you see the potential? This was going to be soo good!

Other than adjusting the armscye, I made a small swayback adjustment.  I use Nancy Zeiman's method from Fitting Finesse. It looks like this book is no longer available, however after talking to Nancy at Sewing Expo many, many years ago, she indicated that Pattern Fitting with Confidence was basically the same and that you didn't need both.   

Honestly, the dress is growing on me. I think it just needs the right styling.  The fabric is a beautiful sunflower challis bought at FabricMart sometime in the summer of 2021

I could really see this dress shinning with dark tights and brown boots and a scarf. I will always wear it with a belt as shown. Which reminds me of the last change I made: this dress has elastic in the waist rather than the drawstring that southport has.

And since that's all there is to say about this True Bias Southport/Style Arc Naomi Mashup/Hack I'll leave you with some more photos.

This is the last dress that Carolyn took pics of when she came to visit in May! I will do my best to take my own (however dorky) photos and keep the blog alive. Thanks for sticking with me through the quiet years.

Saved By A Friend

 Actually, this entire dress is thanks to a friend.  

I had a very pretty piece of green linen in my fabric closet.  I didn't remember where it came from when I originally pulled it.  Because, honestly, for years I was *afraid* of linen.  

I love my first linen hope so much, that I decided to make another.  I asked Carolyn which piece of fabric I should use and she suggested one that I wasn't quite ready to sew up.  So, I pulled this beautiful piece from the shelve.

But here's where everything went sideways.  I have this really bad habit of cutting out just the bodice and then setting it aside.  Then when I'm ready to start, I'll construct the bodice and figure out how long the skirt can be when I get there.

Well, once I got started on it, there wasn't enough fabric for a skirt of any length at all!  OH No! At this point, I sent some photos to Carolyn (which is a pretty regular part of any garment I'm making) and she commented, 'You're using my fabric!' Well, that answered the where the fabric came from.  Carolyn most likely gifted it to me to convince me to use linen.

I asked if she had more, and she did.  It was a piece where she had to purchase lots and had given away 3 yard pieces.  Way back in December, I took a day when I wasn't busy and I drove out to visit with her.  The visit was the reason for the day trip to New Jersey and the rest of the fabric was a bonus!

There are really no changes to this dress.  I had previously lowered the neckline and for this version I added inch wide elastic in the sleeve hems.

And that's about all there is to say about this Style Arc Hope Woven Dress.  The pattern is a gem.  If you haven't made it, you really should consider it!