M6559 Visits San Juan

At the end of June we left on an epic vacation.  I'll post just pictures and tell you about that soon - promise.  I just realized we haven't even been back for 2 months yet - but it feels like vacation was years ago!  

Like just about every person on the planet who makes their own clothing - I had to make some new dresses right before we left.  The week before I made my very first McCalls 6559 (this isn't it - but this was the first one that got photographed in San Juan)

San Juan, Puerto Rico was amazing!  We loved the island and would love to go back.  We stayed in Old San Juan and didn't have a car, so all of our exploring happened on foot and we only got lost a couple of times!

As so many of my makes seem to be - this one was inspired by Carolyn.   She made several M6559 last summer.  I love how easy and cool these dresses are and they can be dressed up or down with your shoes, cardigan or shawl and jewelry. 

Because I only packed for a week - and did laundry on vacation and we were gone for almost 3 weeks - my clothes got worn quite a bit while we were on vacation, but these pictures were all taken in San Juan - but on 2 different days. 

The first time it was worn, we were just wandering around town.  We might have done some shopping or sight seeing (because the entire trip involved shopping and sight seeing). 

So - there is nothing earth shattering to tell you about this pattern.  I did the easy version - 2 pieces and other than adding some width at the hips.  I sewed the dress up on my sewing machine as my serger is still not being cooperative.  The fabric came from Fabric Mart sometime in the past year and according to the sticker - I paid $3.50 a yard.  There wasn't enough left to keep the scraps - so this dress cost just over $10 in fabric and about an hour of my time.

The next time the dress saw sunshine was the day we toured Bacardi.

The wind was crazy  - but Jay got a good snap!          

And here's both of us - having a rum cocktail before the official tour started.

It was a good day!

Never To Be Seen Again

At least on me.  This is Simplicity 8104 and it's a lovely dress with great details, which I will make again, I should just never wear this one again.

There is a fine line between comfortable clothing and sloppy too big clothing. 

Pretty sure I tipped the scales the wrong way with this make.   Again, it's my own fault.   I've been eating better and moving more and even though I take measurements before starting any garment now, I still have no idea what size I am.   In my head I see a very large woman with disproportionately large hips.   I'm not looking for confirmation here, just understanding.  

With that knowledge in mind, I take measurements, then I flat pattern measure, then make any 'necessary' adjustments.   For this pattern, I added 3" in length below the waist, I did a 3" sway back adjustment and I added 4" in width at the hips.  

The first time I wore this dress, I felt comfortable and confident and while I did realize that I had over-aggressively added to the hips, it didn't feel 'sloppy' big.  BUT the second time I wore it - sloppy big.  And I'm not sure why. I was on vacation for almost 3 weeks and all that healthy eating pretty much went right overboard.

But, let's go back to the beginning.  I did the pattern work and cut this one out back in early March.  I spent a couple weekends in May working on this as I got the puppies used to hanging in the sewing room.

I went right to the 'good stuff.'  My first thought was I have to muslin this pattern.  The next one was, I'm out of muslin, guess I better go buy something.  But then I shook myself and said - really?  There isn't anything in the stash closet you can use?   I pulled this lovely purple-grey striped linen and this floral.  I had originally bought them together to make a different dress 3 years ago.  Since it hadn't been made yet - why not use this fabric?  If it didn't work - I obviously wouldn't miss it.  

First - the linen is very thin - like I need to wear a slip under it thin.  Second - I made a few calculations errors when deciding to add the contrast.  I wanted the under collar, collar stand, button band, the underside of the buttonhole band, sleeve tabs, continuous lap and underside of the cuffs to be in the contrast.  Oh, and the hem facing.  Most of this worked well.  But the button/buttonhole bands are not separate pieces and when I 'guessed' where to cut them to make separate pattern pieces - I guessed wrong on the button side.  The button hole side worked fine.  The button side is sewn together, turned to the right side and then handstitched down.  Yep - not the right way to do it at all.  But it got done.   

Next - I think I did something I never, ever do.  If I remember correctly and I haven't had the time or desire to look yet - I remember cutting the tissue to make the alterations.  Rather than tracing, cutting the tracing up and having an intact pattern when I need to go back to the beginning.  

So - what's the gist of this?  Will I make this pattern again?  What will happen to my striped/floral version?

Yes - I will make it again.  But I'll go back to the beginning and not add at the hips.  You can see from the horrible #workbathroomselfie that there is too much at the hips and it wows out, rather than hanging nicely.  

And this version?  Well it will take a trip through the laundry and then go into the donation pile.  Someone will pick it up and love it - but not me.  I'm not comfortable in it any longer.  

My how our tastes change. 

So tell me - what did you think fit okay the first time you wore it, but rethought that after a second wearing?  Did you keep it?

Something I've Never Done Before

 I made Cashmerette's Washington dress.  I was not originally sold on this pattern.  But then I saw the dresses that Jennifer from We Bought a Manor and I was smitten!

I picked up a bright floral stretch twill at JoAnns and then I walked around and around trying to find a knit that worked with it.  I really didn't want white, so - then what?  I went with a dark plum that was in the print.  I knew I had a textured pleather in the stash cupboard.

At the end of May I cut this dress along with several others.  And this was the first one I sewed up.  I waited about a week before wearing it - and it just didn't feel right.  Something was off.  Not sure you can tell in these photos - but the dress is just too big.  The top of the waist piece falls just a bit too low, I could pinch out 2" on each side at the hips, the curve on the waist piece was wrong.

And I'm telling you now - those issues?  They were totally my fault because I don't trust my measurements.

JB did a great job with these photos - because the dress looks good here.   But I took a selfie the day I wore this and sent it to Carolyn.  She asked some very good questions like what don't you like, what doesn't fit.  And then she said, "May I ask why you chose a dark top?"  Honestly - I got very defensive - which wasn't fair - I asked her opinion and I wasn't happy with the dress as a whole.  I love all of the individual parts, but as a whole - just wasn't in love.

So then - then I did something that I never do.  EVER.

I unpicked this dress and remade it.  What?!  Yep - you read that right - I unpicked this dress and remade it.  I told you - I love all of the individual parts.

So first - I pulled the pattern out and retraced it - 2 sizes smaller in a straight size 16.  In the original dress - I traced an 18 in the bodice, grading out to a 20 at the waist and a 22 at the bottom of the waist band.

Then I went to the fabric cupboard and found a piece of white lace that was beautiful.  It was a small piece - just a bit more than enough for the top.  So an entirely new top was cut and sewn.  I did make the sleeves a bit wider, but no other changes to the top.  

I overlapped the skirt and waist band pieces and laid them over the skirt and recut them.  

I had to redo the hem and this time I added lace to it.  Which you can't see.  Now - this cracks me up - which I first finished this dress - I put it on and went upstairs - as I do whenever I finished any dress.  JB looked at it and said I like that purple thing you have under it (the top is completely see through lace, I was wearing a camisole under it).  Then he says "You need a purple bra to wear under that!"  This from the man who thinks a dress is tooo short if my knees show!   do not understand.  

I think the second version of the dress is a bit snug.  It feels like the waistband is riding up to find room.  But it sits better at my waist now, not too low, I don't feel like I have 4" of extra room around my waist and hips and I'm still eating Whole 30 - so I'm gonna assume it will be much more comfortable soon.

So - did you figure out what it was that I never do?  I have NEVER remade a garment.  Once it's done, it's done.  If something doesn't work when I wear it - I make note (usually mental) and make changes the next time I use the pattern and the garment goes on to the goodwill box.  These pieces deserved to be remade.  I am so happy with the second finished dress!  Thanks go to Jennifer at We Bought a Manor for inspiring the original dress and to Carolyn for always being a supportive and honest friend.  And finally - to Jenny for making wonderful patterns for curvy girls!  

So do you remake something that you love that doesn't quite work right?  

Whole 30

Since last last year - I've been thinking about doing a Whole 30.  If I lost a pound or two that would be a bonus - but really I had some underlying health issues.
I have thyroid issues, I wasn't sleeping more than about 3 hours a night, I had heartburn more often than not, I woke up with a migraine level headache 14 out of 15 days and I had no energy at all.

I really, really had to work up to this.  I first mentioned it to JB in August last year.  I googled some blogs, I looked at recipes, and I watched as a few of my sewing friends on InstaGram went through their Whole 30s and posted food photos.



I bought the book in January and started reading it.  All while just thinking about it.  Finally - I picked a date to start.  Carolyn was coming to visit and there were some food events happening and I didn't want to be 'that person' - so I started my Whole 30 on Monday, February 29th.  With the exception of a few days around Day 30 - I haven't even really had a hard time.   I also haven't had heartburn or a headache since early March.  I'm sleeping 7+ hours of sleep a night and I have energy.  I've even started working out regularly.  I feel good.  Oh - and the side benefit - I've managed to drop 25#.

I've done all 5 of my reintroduction days with no real horrible results - although I did have a slight allergic reaction to sugar - which seems strange but honestly refined sugar makes the roof of my mouth itch!  Last Sunday - I had dairy, grains & sugar - thanks to a sewists brunch and quiche and a lovely cake.  I had to try both of them.  Sunday afternoon I was sewing and having issues with fitting a garment - nothing unusual - but honestly - I was livid, and so angry!  Now - a few days later - I'm wondering if it was the combo of foods that I hadn't eaten in a while.

At this point - the middle of May - 10 weeks after starting this 'experimental journey' I feel great and am mostly still eating compliant - by choice.  It's not horribly hard and honestly - I enjoy how we are eating and am surprised at how good real food tastes!

So - have you done a food experiment?  What were your results?  Did you immediately go back to your prior eating?  Did you find it hard?  Do you think my observations are weird?  Talk to me - I want to hear about it.

Upton Girl

AKA - The Bronco's Dress.

Once again I was a tester for Cashmerette.  I am currently having a love/hate relationship with pattern testing.  There are a few reasons for this.  A.   I've mentioned before that I really, really dislike putting together PDFs and no matter how careful I am in trimming my pages, I always have trouble putting them together and getting them to lay flat - BUT I realize that is on me and not the pattern.  2.  I often feel like testing feels like a job and takes the relaxing out of sewing for me.  Those issues aside - when I saw the line drawings for the Upton dress I was All In!

At that same shopping trip with Niema where I bought the Nicole Miller animal print - I also bought this Nicole Miller rayon twill.  I loved the colors.

I will be the first to admit - that this dress doesn't fit me as well as it could.  That seems to be a standard refrain for me when I'm making something new.  At a stable weight - I have no idea how big (or small) I am.  Even with my measurements - I don't always trust them.  When I make this dress again I will go down 2 (or maybe 3) sizes - I can now pinch out almost 4" at the waist.  Again - that's on me and not the pattern or instructions.  And trust me - I am still wearing this - I wore it on Saturday to an ASG event.

The Upton is a sleeveless dress, with a 4 dart bodice front, and both waist and shoulder darts in the back.  There are 2 neckline options (V or Round).  There is a waist band and the option of a deep box pleats or a gored skirt.  If you need to have sleeves it would be easy enough to add a sleeve - I'm a big fan of adding the football shaped cap sleeve to sleeveless dresses - it adds just enough that if your job dress code requires sleeves, you'd be compliant.

And - the Upton has all important pockets and is lined through the waist with a back zipper.  I would add either belt loops or thread chains to a future make because I like wearing a belt but like to keep it on the waistband.
 
In the view I made (V-neck, box pleats) there is no neckline gaping, no need for a swayback adjustment and it's a fun, twirly, girly dress - but subdued enough for work wear.

Due to the testing period - I finished this dress right before the Superbowl and is my habit, I wore my newly finished dress to the Superbowl party we went to.  Because my fabric is navy blue with pops of orange - JB dubbed it The Broncos Dress!  Apparently what I wear influences the outcome of the SuperBowl because the Broncos won.  There has been a request to make an Eagles dress :\

The construction of this dress was quick - even making a lining.  The pieces fit together as they should and I followed the order of construction.  The pattern as it was sent out for testing had a full lining - which I didn't include.  My fabric didn't need it and I couldn't be bothered.  The pattern has now been altered to only have a lined bodice.

If I remember correctly (I really should start drafting blog posts as I make things, rather than try to remember 5 month later!) I assembled and traced the PDF one weekend while I was prepping my fabric.  The next weekend I cut it out and sewed it up.  There is a beautifully inserted orange invisible zipper - which has never been undone because in it's too big state - the dress slips right over my head without unzipping.

My next planned version will be the same - v-neck with the box pleats.  In an embroidered cotton that I bought from Fabric Mart.  It was an end of the bolt special.  I had bought the fabric right before Carolyn's first visit to the West Coast and we saw a very similar dress to the Upton made in an almost identical fabric that year at Sew Expo.  Hopefully - I can make that dress up soon - but with a puppy joining our family next weekend and then a lovely tropical vacation right around the corner it might marinate another year.

See how good the back looks?

Parting thoughts

• This is a great dress that is easy to wear
• It feel feminine and flirty
• In the scoop neck, gored skirt in wool it would be a workhorse
• This pattern will be used make a great TNT to do 'inspiration' dresses ala Carolyn

If the Dress is an Appleton, is the Top Just an Apple?

Yes - I know - Cashmerette made an expansion pack to make turn the dress into a top.  I didn't use it.  I didn't even compare my pieces to her expansion pack because while I didn't get this sewn up prior to it's release it was cut out in early February.


Lately my thing has been to cut out as many things from each piece of fabric as I can get.  Often they are all for me - but sometimes one of my daughters gets a bonus piece of clothing added to their closet.  I've also been spending a weekend and half (or so) each month cutting multiple pieces and then spending the rest of the month sewing them up.  This system works for me when I go to Sew Camp but it usually backfires for home sewing.  So far - it's working well.  I will admit occasionally I get sidetracked and a new garment gets cut before everything is sewn up - but not often.  

But this - this got sewn up!  And I love it.  I have worn it with this grey ponte magic pencil skirt as well as with jeans.  It's comfortable and easy to wear.

I have a new photographer - can you tell?  She was literally making me dance all over the yard.  My husband had shoulder surgery in early March and currently can't hold the camera.

I have no idea if the photos are getting better or not - but we had loads of fun!

Sometimes, I wrap the ties around to the back one more time and tie them in the back.

I feel a bit sassy secretary in this outfit!  The instruction was to "walk like a model" - I think I failed.  

Do you make up multiple garments from one fabric?  

Knit Cirque Dress

Way, way back in February when Carolyn was in town - we went to expo.  One of the things we did - besides buy fabric - was go to a couple of fashion shows.  The first fashion show we went to was the Tilton Sisters.  I fell in love with the Cirque Dress (Vogue 9112).  Mind you - it's not really dress length, it's a tunic.  There was a lovely dress in the talent show - that they had added 7" of length to and I was sold!  I looked at Carolyn and said - can I wear that?

I wasted 2 weekends tracing the pattern and trying to add length and keep the integrity of the pieces.  The first weekend - I tried to add the length just below the waist - I couldn't connect the lines.  The next weekend - I tried adding the length just at the bottom - again, I couldn't figure it out.

But - in the end, I just made it the length in the pattern.  Which was a good thing - because I barely had enough fabric to cut out.  In fact - I had to cut the collar lining in a solid color.  I also cut solid bias to finish the armholes.  The fabric is an incredibly drapey poly jersey - and while it wasn't a recommended fabric - it did have enough drape to be able to pull it off.  

 

This dress is way outside my norm - but I love it!  The fabric was a gift from Carolyn, the design was first seen with Carolyn - so maybe, just maybe I should call this The Carolyn Cirque dress.

More Of The Same

I seem to be sewing multiples lately.  Either multiples of the same fabric or multiples of the same pattern.  This is some of both.

You should recognize the skirt fabric - it is piece 3 of 4 made that live in my closet.  The fourth piece is another magic pencil skirt but it lives in Kystle's closet.  In fact, the burnt orange ponte that I made this second madeleine top from is also a duplicate.  There is a v-necked renfrew that also lives with Krystle - maybe we'll get some outfit photos from her at some point.

So - a couple of Saturdays The Musical One came over and we took several outfit photos.  4 dresses, 2 tops & skirts and a tunic.  I am working my way through them.  2 dresses have to wait to be posted - but I have plenty to post until their release date.

In every photo - this top looks incredibly busty.  I don't think I'm that busty - but maybe I am.  Because I have made both of these pieces multiple times - there isn't much left to say.

Actually - I'm not sure if I've mentioned that I scooped the neckline a bit lower.  I did this the very scientific way - by laying my french curve over the neckline and cutting it lower.  I don't put a zipper in the back - it's a knit, it stretches.  And I used bias to finish the neckline and armholes.  Oh - and I cut about 1" off the cross band once it was assembled to help keep it taut while wearing.

I really need to teach my photographers to tell me about the details.  It looks like - if I make this top again - I need to lower the front band.  or maybe just lengthen the upper bodice pieces overall.  Moving those pleats a bit lower.

By this time of the day - I was tired of changing - trying to put together outfits and accessories and I couldn't be bothered to put shoes on.  But truthfully - I'd be barefoot all the time if I could!  So I'm walking through the grass for these pics with no shoes on!

Animal Appleton

Just when I think I've finally got all my personal fitting issues sorted out - I finally find the eating plan that I really like and start dropping weight.

Earlier this year - during Jungle January - Niema texted me to say that the local JoAnn's had the Nicole Miller fabrics in stock and that I need to come see her new, glorious wool peacoat!  So - I laughed and went to meet her!  I bought 2 pieces of the Nicole Miller fabric.  This knit is incredibly textural - but we didn't get any close ups.

In the Appleton pattern, I have smoothed out the grading I did between the waist and hips.  And this time I didn't cut both fronts the same width.

There really isn't much else to say about this pattern.  This is wrap dress that is easy to put together, always looks great and isn't too low cut.  There will be more.  

Just Another Concord

If you've been living under a rock, you might not know that Cashmerette released a new pattern today.  That pattern is the Concord t-shirt.  Concord is a versatile pattern which includes many neckline, sleeve and even hem options.

I opted to sew this one up for The Musical One.  She has a much larger bust than I do and I think she was feeling a bit left out when her sister took not 1, but 2 Appletons home!

I should take a minute here to point out that I was a tester for this pattern and in exchange I received a free printed pattern.  But Jenny never asks her testers to share their projects with anyone but her - and in fact, I don't think I ever shared these 'better' photos with her.  

The fabric used was a thinnish jersey that I'm guessing I bought from Fabric.com.  There wasn't much - just enough for a top - but the pattern was fun and lovely.

  

I made a straight size 22G.  And honestly - it looks like she could use more room through the bust.  She loves the length and the curved hem.  

I have plan to make many more of these tees - but for me and no her ;)

Knitting Pile O' Shame

I have this pile of knitting on a chair in my house.  It's where I put finished knits before blocking.  And some of these have been waiting for a long time!

And honestly - they didn't all make it in the photo!

From the top:  Hitofude cardigan.  Knit with Cashwool held double.

This took a long time for me to knit - but only because it kept being set aside for other projects.

I finished it while Carolyn was in town in February.

 Next is a basic cowl.  This is another version of the bias loop cowl.

I have at least 2 dresses that will match this cowl and probably a few more items of clothing.

Next is Follow Your Arrow 2.  At this point - I don't even know what clues I followed.

This is a shawl - it was a mystery knit pattern by Wendy Knits and I think I knit it back in 2013.

Yes!  2013.  If I remember correctly, Krystle dyed the yarn for me.

Next - this is Through the Loops Mystery Shawl.  Maybe from 2014.

I love the way this looks.  But if you know me - you know I love prints - so what do I wear this with?

Last in the pile - this lovely half round shawl with a rows of a daisy lace.  

The yarn is Madeline Tosh and it's lovely.  The color is a fabulous neutral.

So - now that I've shared my shame - let's see if I can show you some 'finished' knit photos.

I'm going to aim for by the end of April - but as you can see from my 'avoidance' track record - I make no promises!

What's the longest it's taken you to "finish" something?

Upcoming Projects - Inspired by Carolyn - Topper

Photo borrowed from Carolyn's Blog

Way back at the end of February, when Carolyn was in Seattle being pestered by my dog, we did a tour of the fabric shops in Seattle.  

Weather-wise the day was mostly nice - that is until we were getting close to Nancy's Sewing Basket.  Nancy's is a lovely store and the staff are so friendly and nice.  

I didn't take any photos during the day - because I wasn't planning a blog post - I don't often think that far ahead. ::hem::  So, I've borrowed the picture of the Wardrobe from Everyday Style by Lotta Jansdotter in the window at Nancy's.  

Both Carolyn and I noticed the window on our way in - but we really didn't linger and look because it had decided to act like Seattle weather at that point and it was raining sideways!  We wanted to get inside - because of course - I left the umbrella in the car  :\

Tamara (Somerfield Studio) was working at Nancy's that day - and she was wearing the topper from the book.  We all started talking about toppers and looking through Everyday Style which was right on the front counter.  The gals at Nancy's all pulled out Kwik Sew 4104 which Carolyn also recommended to knock off her topper which was a take-off from the Vogue 1247 skirt.  

Anyway - I bought the book.  And I plan to make the topper.  

When I bought the book - I immediately thought of this lovely blue textural fabric that's been in my stash for some time.  I have plenty and it's always been destined for a coat - but should it be an 'outerwear' coat, or something fun like this topper?  The paisley in the corner was originally purchased to make a dress - but I think will make fabulous bias tape for binding the seams as this binder is unlined.  

As I said, Tamara was wearing the topper when we walked into Nancy's.  As sewists do - when we started talking about them, she ripped it off and threw it at me to try on.  She told me which size she sewed and I was sold.  Having tried it on - I know that I only need to add a bit of width through the hips - about 2" on the back only.  I can easily add that when I trace the pattern - soon.  I plan to do it soon.    

I also have this fabric combo which I think will make a lovely topper - maybe with the front turned back like in the window display.  

But - I have a question for you - how would you style a topper?  Talk to me - because basically - I can't dress myself.  

Carolyn's Visit

Nancy's and District Fabric Purchases

 As you may (or may not) know - Carolyn was in Seattle a few weekends ago.  We toured the majority of the Seattle fabric stores - I've learnt from the comments that we missed a few.  We went to Expo on Saturday and Sunday we went to lunch, hung out and watched the Red Carpet.  You can read all about the weekend from Carolyn's point of view.

Sewing Expo Purchases

I thought it's about time I shared my fabric and intentions.

This fabric came from District Fabric.  It was in the clearance end and was marked at $2.50 a yard!  This is one of 3 pieces that Carolyn and I both bought.  It was said several times over the weekend - If Carolyn is buying it and I'm drawn to it - I better buy some because she doesn't want to hear it when I grumble that I should have bought some when I see her finished garment.  I believe we both plan to make skirts from this piece.  It is a fabulous tiny pin cord and it's amazing. 

This is another District purchase.  I'm pretty sure I have multiple pink floral jerseys - but this one was amazing.  So slinky and rich looking.  It screamed at me that it needed to be an Appleton in my closet - and so it shall be - hopefully soon!!

Our first stop at Expo was the Tilton booth.  I found this lovely floral sateen (sensing a theme?) and started looking for a jersey to pair it with.  It wants to be a Washington dress - ever since seeing We Bought a Manor's Washingtons - I have needed to make one.  I know I have some black ponte - but I'm hoping I have some black pleather as well.

  

One of the things I was looking for at Expo was a piece of fabric that would work with the lace I bought at Nancy's.  This piece of lace is stunning!  I thought the fabric would become a Carolyn Skirt to be worn with a bow blouse.  We'll see if that's the pattern I end up using.  

This fabric I must have picked up when someone else was having it cut.  I purchased it at the Vogue booth and it says shirtdress to me.  The fabric is very light so I'll have to make a slip to wear under it.  But those roses - lovely!  (3rd floral!)

Another fabric that both Carolyn and I both have yardage.  Again - I think this one should be a shirtdress.  I think Carolyn has different plans for her piece.  And at least one other local friend has a piece of this fabric.  

The final shared piece of yardage between Carolyn and I.  She thinks this should be the middle McCalls dress with the full skirt for me - but I think the fabric might be a bit too thin and slinky for that dress.  Pretty sure I would need to underline the bodice in organza to make this work - but would the skirt need to be underlined as well - or could I just wear a slim petticoat under it?  If that plan doesn't work - then one of the tops on either side should work for this fabric.  

I bought one more piece of fabric.  This one was in Billie's and it 's a beautiful black and white sateen with a lovely border print.  It has Maggie London printed on the selvedge.  Honestly - I've decided that Maggie is my kryptonite - I can rarely walk away from it.  Sitting on top of it are my new Kai scissors.  I'm hoping to actually use them soon.  This fabric also wants to be a shirtdress.    

And here are the shirtdress options in my pattern stash.  I should be able to find one that works - right?