I have this beautiful piece of gray and white hounds tooth. I don't know the fabric content, but I bought it at Hancock Fabrics a couple of years ago. It has a lovely soft drapable hand but it's pretty loosely woven.
I have spent a couple of weekends modifying the Carolyn skirt to get something that resembles this lovely skirt from Burda April
2009 to get this shape. I think I have it.
This is what I want to know. Can I put the center front panel on the bias and the remaining skirt on the straight grain? I'm planning on underlining this with white flannel and lining it as well. My thought was that I'd cut the fashion fabric on the bias the the lining and underlining on the straight grain.
The girls in my local ASG group said that I couldn't do that. The fabric would behave differently in the center and I would be unhappy with it. Another said that the skirt would be too busy and there would be no place for the eye to rest.
So I'm asking you all - can I do this? Will it work to mix the two grains? Will it be too busy? I have lots and could do it over if it doesn't work, but I think I like the idea of the front panel being just a bit different. I was thinking I would pipe those seams with a solid gray fabric if I did cut the center on the bias.
I have this beautiful piece of gray and white hounds tooth. I don't know the fabric content, but I bought it at Hancock Fabrics a couple of years ago. It has a lovely soft drapable hand but it's pretty loosely woven.
I have spent a couple of weekends modifying the Carolyn skirt to get something that resembles this lovely skirt from Burda April
2009 to get this shape. I think I have it.
This is what I want to know. Can I put the center front panel on the bias and the remaining skirt on the straight grain? I'm planning on underlining this with white flannel and lining it as well. My thought was that I'd cut the fashion fabric on the bias the the lining and underlining on the straight grain.
The girls in my local ASG group said that I couldn't do that. The fabric would behave differently in the center and I would be unhappy with it. Another said that the skirt would be too busy and there would be no place for the eye to rest.
So I'm asking you all - can I do this? Will it work to mix the two grains? Will it be too busy? I have lots and could do it over if it doesn't work, but I think I like the idea of the front panel being just a bit different. I was thinking I would pipe those seams with a solid gray fabric if I did cut the center on the bias.
Well, shoot! I can't see what the experts say if I'm first...
ReplyDeleteIf you have enough to change it if you don't like it, go for it.
ReplyDeleteI do think it will act differently and you may need to play around with it a little, but the piping may help it lie the way you want.
I think it would add interest and not really be too busy. I have seen plaid/checks done that way it it looks OK.It would probably be a different story if it was a bigger hounds tooth.
ReplyDeleteAs to the drape, I think the underlining and lining will solve the problem. If you have enough to redo it if you aren't happy, I say go for it! If not anything else, you'll learn stuff in the process and that is always worth something too!
Of course you can! Stabilize the fabric before you cut and go for it. If you're planning to underline the other pieces as well, I would think that all of the pieces will behave the same way, or close enough that you'll be happy.
ReplyDeleteI like the change of angle on the fabric. I don't know that the fabric will stretch weirdly since you're underlining it. As long as the lining doesn't stretch, I don't see why the outermost panel should stretch or behave in a funky way! And I like the piping idea, too.
ReplyDeleteI say do it! I did a retro jumper/dress with a bias bodice. I love it. I did interface the bias section so it would behave like the rest of the dress. Here's the blog post: http://twoontwooff.blogspot.com/2008/09/burda-09-2008-114-retro-dressjumper.html
ReplyDeleteIt's a small enough pattern that I don't think it will be too busy... but what do you think about maybe the sides on the bias and the center on straight of grain?
ReplyDeleteLooking at the photo it seems to have a visual direction to the slant when you put it on the bias... I guess my occasionally symetrical mind saw the directional biases as mirroring on the sides of a straight piece.
And... I like the piping idea.
Go for it!
If you treat it the way you are proposing, I think it will be fine. The underlining will help stabalize the bias cut of that center front. Or you could interface with a tricot interfacing (you know, the interfacing for knits) to preserve suppleness, lightness and movement yet stabalize the fabric. Just let it hang overnight/24 hours to make sure that front section doesn't droop or grow too much.
ReplyDeleteI agree this would be a great variation.
I say go for it! But what do I know about sewing??
ReplyDeleteI think it would look cool. :P
As the underlining for the piece on the bias will be on the strisght I expect it will be fine, cos you'll be attaching these two pieces together before they get joined to other pieces. The underlining will provide the stabilization do the upper cloth sitting ont the bias wont pull too much.
ReplyDeleteConfess that I'm the granddaughter of a besoke tailoress, and a gatherer of sewing information and finishing, coz I'm a right fussy finisher of sewing.
Michelle Downunder, xxx
I'd be concerned that the bias would stretch out and the underlining wouldn't, so you might have some bubbling towards the hemline. I think I'd be inclined to underline with a fusible tricot interfacing cut on the same grain and hang the pieces for at least 24 hours before seaming to let the bias do its thing. Or sew the first couple of inches of the princess seams and then hang the entire skirt. You'd be surprised at how much different the two seams could measure, depending on the fabric. Just my opinion, of course.
ReplyDeleteI'm late to the party but I think it would look pretty cool. No idea if the bias would behave funny, though.
ReplyDeleteDid you decide to go for it ?
More sensible to cut the side panels on the bias (so they "chevron" inwards, i.e. mirror images of each other). That way you get more "swing" in your skirt and it is balanced - it won't "pull" to one side. Who want the eye to "rest" anyway? What a daft idea!
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