Ellis Skirt

You just recently saw many of these pictures when I talked about the sweater.  But this time - I'm gonna tell you about the skirt.

Again - I am a Cashmerette pattern tester and was provided the pattern in exchange for sewing it up.  But the thoughts and opinions on the skirt are my own.

I used to have a denim skirt very similar to this in my closet and I'm surprised how much I miss it.  This Ellis skirt was sewn in November - after my last round of Whole 30 and I as I learn to be gluten and dairy free.  So, my shape is in flux, just FYI.

Second - there were changes made to the fit of the pattern between testing and release.  I haven't compared my traced pieces to the final pattern - and I should.

Third - for my specific pear shaped issues and sway back on the tester version, I had to create a deep 2" dart in the back yoke to help eliminate gaping at my back waist.  Also - I understand this has been changed in the final pattern - see note above about how lazy I am.

Finally - This is a very traditional denim style skirt - I sewed the 5 pocket version with plain back pockets (that JB didn't take a photo of).  I added the darling coin pocket - which seems tiny and like it sits a bit too high above the other pocket.  I don't know if that's my cheater method of marking or if it really sits that high.

Just the Stats:

Waist:  38"
Hip:  52"
Height:  5'9"
Fabric:  purple stretch denim from deep stash - most likely an ancient joann's purchase from when The Princess worked at a vet and it was purchased to make scrubs. There was just enough for this skirt.

Alterations:  I used the pear shaped pattern pieces and cut a size 18 at the waist and a 20 at the yoke.  I pin fit the pattern to me to get the right hip curve.  I took a class with Peggy Sagers years ago and we figured out *MY Particular Hip curve.

Final size - 16 waist; 18 high hip and somewhere between an 18/20 hip.

I did not add length and I'm happy with where this lands.

Will I make this again? YES!  I need skirts like this in my life.  I find denim skirts so easy to wear and feel put together.  I feel like I look presentable to welcome guests to the B&B as well as feeling 'like me' when I get going for the day.  I definitely need a true denim version - which will get me to comparing test to final pattern.  Watch for that - or maybe don't at my current speed it might take years.

*This is how you do it to find yours.  With elastic holding your garment up - pin fit the side seams.  Very carefully - without removing any of the pins - step out of the garment (pants or skirt).  Turn inside out.  Then using your french curve, place along the pinned seam until it matches.  This is your Hip Curve.  It should not change with size.

Scary Blue Lace - Simplicity 1717

I'm gonna say it again - Posture!!

 While Carolyn was visiting the one thing she wanted to do was hang out in the sewing room and mentor my sewing skills.  I've been sewing for years - but I'm often not very confident in what I am capable of.  Based on that - I tend to make lots of simple cotton skirts and dresses and loads of knit dresses.

This lace was bought back in March 2010 - so it's been precious for 5 years.  That's long enough, right?  The first thing we did after picking the fabric from the closet - was to start digging through the patterns.  Simplicity 1717 is one of their Amazing Fit line of patterns.  I spent some time with this myself back in the 2013 and made a couple of skirts.

Step One:  Because I'd already made this skirt - I pulled an old version of it out and put it on.  It was a big snug.  It was decided that I needed to add some room - but only in the front.  It's not uncommon for your front or back half (think splitting side to side) to be bigger than the other.

Changes were made to the pattern and I cut, serged and sewed the lining together before ever cutting into the lace.  Then Carolyn pinned it to me and we took some pictures.  it fit well -- no changes.

Next up - cutting that beautiful, expensive lace.  An inch was added to the length.  I'm hoping to just trim around the lace at the hem, letting the hem match the shape of the lace.

concentrate - don't forget to breathe

Once I was getting ready to sew the lace, that's when the convo about workroom vs. pretty sewing space came up - See - I didn't have any organza in my sewing room - well, I have some pink left over from my MOB dress, but how often are you going to use pink organza, really?  We also had to shorten a zipper because I only had long invisible zippers.  While I was stalling starting the sewing - I was playing with the cut fabric and notice the selvage - Carolyn trimmed it off while I sewed darts.  The selvage was used to stabilize the seams between the skirt and the yoke as well as the zipper and center back seam below the zipper.  Organza was used to stabilize the side seams.

I put a new universal 80 needle in and shortened the stitch length to 1.5.  I sewed slowly and had the strip of selvage under the two pieces I was seaming together.  There is lots of light at the needle on my sewing machine!

Once each piece was seamed together, I pressed it open, over the seam roll, using an organza pressing cloth to protect the lace.  Then I used the clapped to set that seam.  Repeat from the right side with a lighter hand.  Next up - silk thread and catch stitching the seam allowance to the lace.  Slowly and carefully - I've been working on the project.  Taking my time and doing my best at each stage of the game.

If you follow me on InstaGram - well you know the temporary outcome of this story.  The skirt is too big!  I have walked away for now - but I will not give up!


I'll let you know soon - what happened.