Odette

Abby of Blue Ginger Doll released a new pattern, the Odette dress.  I've been waiting for this one for a long time!  It's always exciting for me when I'm asked to test sew a pattern.  I enjoy the process and hope I end up with a fabulous finished project.  In this case - I really do feel like I'm the winner!  

I worked on this dress over several weeknights while JB was in night school refreshing his emissions certification.   I also worked on some new techniques for me.  This dress includes my first hand picked zipper.  I have to tell you - I was positive the zipper was gonna just fall out the first time I wore it - but it hasn't!  I also did loads of catch stitching to finish the bodice lining.

The observant will notice that the skirt is slight too big for me.  Nope - I don't have any idea how big my hips are.  Maybe someday I'll figure it out.  In the meantime, this is wearable.  The super observant will notice that I don't have an insert in my bodice neckline.  That is totally my fault.  I messed up the button placement.  I have the insert by the sewing machine to fix it - but honestly I just wear the dress without it.  The slit is not so low as to be inappropriate for work.

This one's for Nessa - posterior for posterity

For the first time ever - I needed a forward shoulder adjustment.  I did NOT follow Heather B's lovely tutorial on adjusting the sleeve - which I will do for next time.  And there will be a next time!  I have fabric set aside for at least 2 more versions.  and speaking of Heather B - did you see her Odette Skirt hack?  As this was my first forward shoulder and a bit of a different neckline - I totally messed it up.  But I know what I did and will fix it on the next version.  The shoulder seams are very narrow.  They stay on my shoulders just fine, but you can see my bra straps.  I keep meaning to add strap keepers - but it hasn't happened yet.  Someday. . . 

I used a polished cotton with stretch.  The bodice is lined with purple batiste and so are the fronts of the pockets.  The pocket backs are fashion fabric.  As I mentioned, there are some changes I will make to the next version - make the skirt a smaller size, fix the forward shoulder adjustment that I did - the shoulder seam is in the right place, but the shoulders shouldn't be so wide/the seam so narrow, and follow Heather's tutorial for adjusting the sleeve to match.

One Trick Pony

I made another moneta.  But if you look closely - it doesn't really look like Colette's Moneta.  As designed - Moneta is a lovely dress that is flattering on everyone I've seen make it.  This is my 4th version - so it's not like I don't like it - I do.  I just find the neckline a bit high on me. 

For this version I took the Lady Skater front bodice over this one and just cut it lower.  i like it!

Per the instructions, the bodice is lined.  Well that's not exactly true, the instructions only have you line the bodice in the sleeveless version.  Until about 3 months ago, I made the majority of my dresses sleeveless and always wore a cardi.  But it's been hot!  and I want to be able to take my cardigan off and not break the dress code at work (I mean, I'm pushing it enough by having bare legs!)   So - I lined the bodice on this version.  

I decided I wanted a different skirt - so I used the skirt from McCalls 5974.  I didn't use the pleats exactly as designed for that skirt - I just measured out from center and folded the pleats back until the bodice and skirt panels lined up at the side seam. 

The fabric is a poly ITY that I bought from Fabric Mart in October 2013.  I spent just over $10 for the 3 yards and I had scraps left over.  The lining was a thin, inexpensive knit from JoAnn's that worked well with the colors.

I  added pockets - I never used to add pockets but I put them in my last dress and now I want them all the time!  Seriously - give me pockets!

Because this giant print was a bit see-through I also made slip out of the leftover yellow jersey.  As TMO told me last week when I was working on my maxi - you don't know how big your hips are do you?  Apparently I don't.  While the slip is long enough and did it's job well - it's too big!  I know this surprises none of you.  

So - all in all - another nice dress to add to the closet!  

Tulip Moneta

This dress (yep - it's a dress) is the 3rd moneta I've made.  This pattern is quick, easy and mostly flattering.  In this knit the skirt is so very, very swishy!  The bodice fabric is a heavy jersey I picked up at JoAnn Fabrics on my bonus Monday off after the July 4th holiday.  The skirt portion is a stretch jersey ITY crepe knit border print that I bought from Fabric.com in 2011 (according to my order history), the top of this fabric was all white.  Since I managed to spill something on the skirt today and every single time I wear white I can't keep food in my mouth - I did NOT want a white bodice.  So - I took the fabric to JoAnn's to find something to work with it.  You can't see it in the photos, but the bodice has just a tiny bit of sparkle in it.  

bonus pics of the poor maple firewood and stump!

Moneta has a slight a-line shaped, gathered skirt.  The pattern piece has a curved hem.  Honestly - I can't remember if I lengthened this or not - but I think I probably did - just because I always do.   When I cut the skirt, I placed the bottom of the center front skirt pieces an inch below the bottom of the border print.  So, I lost some of the bottom of the border in the curve of the pattern piece.  Make sense?  I did not include pockets because I am not a pocket girl.  My hips are big enough I don't need to pile stuff on top of them.

I did scoop out the front neckline a bit.  I think the front neckline on this pattern is quite high.  I did not line the bodice or use bands, I simply pressed the edge under 3/4" and topstitched it.  I also did something weird with the sleeve hems - the appear to be curved - need to straighten them out!

Honestly - I'm not sure I love the skirt portion of this pattern.  The skirt gathers to the bodice.  My issues are my own problem and creating.  Since I don't know how big my hips are or how much ease they need - I cut the skirt portion in size 3X.  However, I cut the bodice in a large (um, yea - it could be slightly bigger).  However - I left all the matching notches where they were because they large sizes aren't nested with the smaller sizes.  This time I matched side seams and notches and gathered to fit.  That means more of the gathers are on the sides rather than evenly spaced.   I do think I'll take a page from Idle Fancy's book and pleat the skirt next time - or try matching the lady skater skirt to this bodice - or maybe flora ala Heather B.