October 6, 2013

NL6095 Take 2

I've asked for some fitting sessions with Judy Barlup for my birthday.  Maybe I'll get them.  If not - I plan to use my 'monthly mad money' to take some classes with Judy.  In the meantime, this weekend - I retraced the front and back of the dress.  I took a 1/4" tuck above the bust, a 1/2 tuck above the waist and a 1" tuck below the waist - that's all I did.  Taking that last tuck below the waist, smoothed out the drastic hip curve some. 

from the bust up, the fit is good.  However,
the bust darts are too high and need to be lowered by about 3/4"

from the side - the side seam pulls to the back.
and now I have those lovely diagonal lines over the butt, again.

the back is just all over too tight and the shape on the hips is still wrong.
That being said, I can move and sit comfortably in this.

Still need to take a swayback wedge out of the back and curve the back seam more.
Arg - this is hard to do by yourself.  I really need to teach JB to help with fitting. 


  1. The front looks nice, even better once you lower the dart. If I may, I suggest that you split and widen the back bodice section (just insert a strip of fabric and pin it in) and get the width of the back bodice correct first, as that will affect the hand of the bodice. That way you can see how much of a swayback adjustment is needed.

    Once the back bodice is correct, and the swayback is corrected, you may find that the back skirt section "sits" where it is supposed to over your backside. I think that might eliminate the drag lines I see in the back photos.

    This is how I would approach fitting this dress. I hope you don't mind my suggestions, just trying to help out. I, too, find it difficult to fit sometimes and love it when others offer to help. That's one reason blogging is such a wonderful thing to those of us who sew.

    Good luck!

  2. I agree that the drag lines in the butt area are probably due to the back waist still being too long. Overl, however, this is looking much improved. It is frustrating to try to fit something as complicated as a dress, but once you get it right, you can use the measurements and adjustments to help fit other projects.

  3. Stick with it, as it looks like it is coming together well. I like the sound of what Juliane noted, above, and think it is worth trying. The end dress will fit like a dream ... J

  4. Fascinating stuff. Maybe it's a good thing I'm returning to a jeans and boots work environment... I may not look as sharp and tailored as I think I do.

  5. Good luck with the teaching JB to do fittings thing. Men just don't get all of that.

    I do think you might need a little more room in the back bodice, so it doesn't pull across the back, and Juliane's suggestions sound excellent. I do hope you get your fitting session for your birthday; that would make you so happy!

  6. Yes, I would loosen the back too. I notice you have a pull in the side seam under the arm - I did too - and when I let that seam out, the back didn't drag. That's easy to do, before you start slashing and spreading the dress at the back. Side seams should hang straight.

  7. I had an idea though it would mean starting over in a way. How about starting with a princess seamed shift dress? I think it might be easier to fit than a darted and shaped dress and still look at polished and professional. Just a thought.


I appreciate you coming to see me. It may take me a bit to publish your comment - but I will get to them by the end of every day. If you leave a way for me to get back to you, I will. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your opinions. g

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