September 29, 2013

New Look 6095

Back to the drawing board.  I spent a good part of Sunday working on New Look 6095.  I have long wanted a proper sheath dress.  Not one with princess seams, but a dress that fits and hangs from the shoulders.  Very similar to what Carolyn builds most of her 'inspired by dresses' from. 

Today, I traced New Look 6095.  It's a very simple sheath dress with fish eye darts in the back and an angled bust dart in the front.  Nothing else. 

I traced a 16 from the shoulders through the bust, 18 at the waist and essentially a 24 at the hips.  Oh, and I tried something new while tracing - I marked the size I wanted to use and then pivoted it to the size 16 and drew the line in.  This kept the curves smooth between the sizes.

Then I grabbed a brushed cotton print.  It's black and grey on a yellow background.  When I started - I sorta didn't care if it fit or not.  But I really like the print.  I also made the cap sleeve more of a short sleeve. 

I sewed the darts in, put the zipper in the back - but left those darts out, sewed the shoulder seams, set in the sleeves.  The sleeves have a bit too much length, causing some fullness in the cap.  And then I basted the side seams. 

The front looks good - the bust darts are in the right place, the waist is in the right place, but as I tend to do - the hips are too low and there is too much fabric - jodhpur hips.  The back however is a hot mess. 

I've bought The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting to see if I can figure it out.  I have enough fabric left recut the back and the sleeves.  But of course I serged the raw edges as I was putting it together. 

Hopefully this book will help and I can figure it out.  Next time - I'll use real muslin.  Although it does get frustrating to spend what little time I have at the sewing machine working on garments that will never see the light of day.  

7 comments :

  1. Not sure if you're up for it, but if you post some pics maybe we (meaning those who read your blog) can help you figure out what went wrong with the back. Only if you feel like sharing, of course.

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  2. I've just started making this dress as well. The bust is a bit low, the hips too large - I'm a straight figure type. I'd love to see a picture of your problem too.

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  3. While I like sheath dresses, I rarely wear one because they simply do not "fit" my body. I hope you can work out the kinks in the pattern to salvage your dress.

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  4. A couple of things ~
    1. My TNT dress pattern started as a dress with an empire waist seam. The version I work with now has that seam eliminated. I think that's why I have such a good fit at the top and the bottom. Because in the beginning it was two pieces placed together.

    2. I no longer use my straight back pieces for the back of my dresses. If you notice my last two have princess seaming in the back. This allows for new fitting issues I've developed with age.

    3. Shave the curves off the side seams of your dress front. Over the years that curved edged has decreased more and more. Sometimes I do it when I'm sewing the garment, sometimes I do it when I cut the pattern out. But that pear shape curve is "too" on most of us.

    This is a process and I did all of the work on one pattern to get it to work. My pattern is now over 12 years old and I keep transferring it from pattern paper to pattern paper as I wear it out.

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  5. I have no hips so I routinely have that problem... with store-bought clothes. Cute dress. Reminds me of a Lilly P Janie wore this summer. The neckline was too wide for me as was the skirt, but she sure looked great in it!

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  6. I made that dress last year - it was actually the first dress i ever finished sewing (i had started one prior but never finished) and i did an invisible zip for the first time! http://soisewedthis.blogspot.com/2012/08/so-i-sewed-this-and-im-wearing-it-oh-my.html i actually only wore it that one time and it's been sitting in my closet since. it has a few issues, but i really don't feel like trying to fix it. i think if i did it again, i'd pick a fabric with a little bit of stretch because the fabric i used had zero stretch, so it just wasn't that comfortable to sit in all day. i thought about cutting it up and making it either into just a top or just a skirt. i'll be very interested to see what changes you make to yours! best wishes!

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  7. Haven't sewed in years, and never for myself. I'm getting ready to cut this out now. Eeek!

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