September 12, 2023

Grainline Myra

 I don't even remember when I 'applied' to be a Grainline tester. But I will admit to being very surprised when I received an email asking if I was interested with the line drawing attached.


 I was hooked as soon as I saw the back detail and that incredibly interesting back yoke shape.

 I feel so honored to have been chosen to be on the testing team for the new Grainline Myra. It was my first time testing for Grainline and I hope it won't be my last.

 From Grainline's website: 

Myra is a sophisticated slip dress and top with angled seam detailing, a square neckline, and spaghetti straps.  Dress Myra up or down with your fabric choice, and select from three length options to make a Myra that's perfect for any occasion.  


 Myra calls for light to medium woven fabrics and I used a fairly lightweight stretch poplin from FabricMart. The fabric was part of my dryer stash, that I'm trying to work through.

The first thing I did was send the pattern file to LaQuana for printing.  I don't need to start a test with problems of my own creating. Q's shop is called BlueCupShop on etsy and she's quick and reasonable. She also reached out to ask questions when I've sent a file that's 6 pages to see if I really need to the B cup files! I appreciate that! 

 After referring to my project notebook that I am being religious about keeping in 2023, I can tell you that I made the following alterations, to fit me:

  • traced a size 18 at the bust graded to 20 at the hip;
  • added 2" to the length;
  • cut 4 straps so they were wide, the pattern has skinny straps
  • raised the side slits by 3"
  • added inseam pockets
  • removed 3 1/2" from the strap length, although I might have been a bit aggressive with shortening the straps.

This dress was an easy sew with a unique look. That lovely back yoke creates a really interesting back view.

And I don't even have back fat pushing out of the top of my dress! And I don't need more room in the back, I'm not standing up straight, I have one hip hitched to the side :)

 Myra feels like the sheath dress I've been trying to make forever! I have plans for more. I have a lovely burnt orange linen to make a version for my solids loving daughter and I have enough of this floral left to make the top version.

 Because I added length, I also increased the length of the side slits. Myra has slits on both side seams. If she wasn't so long, you could alternatively leave a slit in the center back seam.

 

Myra feels like all sass! At least in this bright floral version.

 Finally, in the interest of full disclosure. I should tell you that I've gifted this version to my solids loving daughter. And that I took all my own photos for this blog post.

September 5, 2023

Donny Dress Hack

 As so many of my projects do, I was inspired by a dress I saw on Instragram.  This time it was thats.sew.sandy - and she hacked the Friday Pattern Co. Donny Shirt into a dress.  Yep!  I can totally get behind that. I waiting until FPC had their sale and then sent the pattern off to Blue Cup Shop for printing. 

 I'm not sure what I was working on when the pattern arrived, but I didn't get to it right away.  Although I did pull fabric and put it with the pattern immediately.

 The fabric is a poly cotton, mostly cotton based on the wrinkling, that I most likely got at an Amish shop. There was no identifiers on the fabric.  I've been 'collecting' gingham and plaid for about 18 months now, and I thought this would be a great Summer dress. 

 It wasn't until I was cutting, that I realized the plaid was uneven and it took a lot more brain power to match the stripes across the center front.  If you look close, you'll see I came close, but it's not quite right.  But who's looking that close?!

 I also knew I wanted to add piping. I didn't have enough small cording in my collection, so I made a quick trip to Cedar Lane and bought 10 yards of piping, which I took apart for the cord.  I pulled a green polka dot cotton from the closet and used that.  It matches the green in the stripes perfectly.

I traced the size XL and made all my "standard" adjustments, which is a 3/4" sway back adjustment. I traced the pattern with a 7" finished side seam for the bodice and I think it's the perfect place for the waist to hit me. For future makes, I'll add about an inch to the center front so that seam hangs even.
 
I took great pains to match the plaid at the side seams and added a bias cut panel on the back pocket piece. 

 The skirt is just 2 lengths of fabric gathered into the waist.  Pockets added to the front. Oh, I don't know what I was thinking, but I originally cut the skirt pieces at 37". I mean, how tall do I think I am?!  Of course the inspo dress was more tea length than knee, but . . . 

 I'm curious, do you consider adding a gathered rectangle to a shirt pattern a hack? I'd love to know what you think a hack is.  

August 28, 2023

Birthday Dress - 2022 Edition

 For years, I have made myself a birthday dress. Sometimes we go away, sometimes we go out to dinner, but mostly these days I have to work.  

Anyway, last year I made Style Arc Naomi and it was a bust. There are no photos, it just wasn't a good style for me. BUT the sleeves are amazing!  So - I laid the True Bias Southport bodice over the Naomi and traced naomi's armscye, front and back. I also raised the front neckline on Southport a little bit.  


The skirt is folded over the hanger bar inside the bodice in this picture, but can you see the potential? This was going to be soo good!

Other than adjusting the armscye, I made a small swayback adjustment.  I use Nancy Zeiman's method from Fitting Finesse. It looks like this book is no longer available, however after talking to Nancy at Sewing Expo many, many years ago, she indicated that Pattern Fitting with Confidence was basically the same and that you didn't need both.   

Honestly, the dress is growing on me. I think it just needs the right styling.  The fabric is a beautiful sunflower challis bought at FabricMart sometime in the summer of 2021

I could really see this dress shinning with dark tights and brown boots and a scarf. I will always wear it with a belt as shown. Which reminds me of the last change I made: this dress has elastic in the waist rather than the drawstring that southport has.
And since that's all there is to say about this True Bias Southport/Style Arc Naomi Mashup/Hack I'll leave you with some more photos.
This is the last dress that Carolyn took pics of when she came to visit in May! I will do my best to take my own (however dorky) photos and keep the blog alive. Thanks for sticking with me through the quiet years.
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