You might be asking yourself why? Because 1.) I love the look of a shirt coming out from under a pullover - the shirttail hems, the cuffs and the collar - it's just classic and b) the sweater was being knit from lopi - which is itchy as all get out.
For whatever reasons, I didn't finish the sweater. It was a test knit and there were sizing issues FOR ME.
I used New Look 6470 for the shirt and very carefully measured myself and then the pattern flat. I added some space where needed. I worked on the shirt during Spring Sew Camp 2018. I knew as I was working on it that it wasn't going to fit me. But I plodded on. I'm glad I finished it.
For the back yoke, I cut the piece in half and added a seam allowance and then cut the stripes on the bias. The yoke facing was cut on the normal gain for stability. I burrito'd putting the yokes together so the shoulder seams are enclosed. I made the back pleat a bit wider to give some more room at the hips.
What you can't see, because I didn't unroll the sleeves is that the shirt has long sleeves with a tower placket and proper cuffs.
While I can't currently button up this shirt and still move, it will get worn over a tank or cami. It's a great layering piece.
This is a good shirt pattern. It currently fits through the shoulders, so I need to figure out what to do to add more width around the bust and hips - FBA? Maybe. While I don't have a large bust, I do have a large rib cage and a FBA might give me enough room to be able to button this button up shirt. Hmmm, let me add this project to the ever growing list of things to make. :)
How would you fix this pattern so the shirt can button and movement would be possible?
Geez, I can't even get my stuff to fit me, so asking me for help isn't of much value. I'm guessing that you need to add room to the front pieces only, maybe an FBA, because the back fit is perfect! And I love that color on you. You're right; it's a great layering piece despite the fact that you can't button it. (And I don't like wearing a pullover sweater without a buttonup under it, so you're not alone.)
ReplyDeleteI think you are totally on the right track with an FBA, even not having a proportionately larger bust. I learned this lesson sewing a shirt for my (male) cousin, who has hyper-erect posture that throws his chest forward. The wrinkles in his shirt muslin kept saying "FBA, FBA, FBA"...but this was a guy, with NO b**bs. So what's up with that? Finally, buried in the old edition of Palmer Pletsch, I found a single reference to this fitting issue: When the body mass is carried forward of the side seam (i.e., more of the body is to the front of the side seam than towards the back), then an FBA will help with fitting even when the bust is not proportionately large. I routinely drape in a no-dart FBA now when fitting individuals who have this body type. Worth a try, anyway!
ReplyDeleteAlso, I see in the back of your shirt that the fabric is saying a broad back adjustment is needed. It is the pulling of the fabric into the armscye, about 3 inches below the bottom of the yoke.
Perfecting a button-up shirt pattern is GOLD!
Judith (from the North Seattle ASG - miss you!)
i agree with judith. the fba will make the shirt more comfortable. if you have time to fool with it, drafting a back yoke about 3/4 inch wider will get rid of some of the pulling, as will the full-back adjustment. watch out for a possible extension of the collar (if necessary). maybe make a "wearable muslin" of the revised pattern before cutting into an expensive fabric?--anne
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